San Francisco/Civic Center-Tenderloin

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Blue skies at Civic Center Plaza and City Hall
Blue skies at Civic Center Plaza and City Hall

Civic Center-Tenderloin is an area of Downtown San Francisco. As the name implies, the Civic Center is the primary center of government within the city and many important civic institutions are housed here. Aside from its official duties, it also moonlights as a cultural center with many fine museums, theaters, opera houses, and symphony halls located here. Over the years however, it has developed a reputation for attracting many of the city's drug-addicted and homeless to its open plazas. The Tenderloin is one of San Francisco's lowest income neighborhoods. It has a rich history and eclectic community, but unfortunately it also has a reputation for poverty, drugs, and crime, particularly violent street crime. The Civic Center-Tenderloin area is bounded roughly by Market St to the southeast, Mason St to the east, Franklin St to the west, and Sutter St to the north.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Civic Center

The Civic Center is on Van Ness Ave, north of its intersection with Market St. The city began developing the area in 1913, and most of the buildings there are of a "Classical Style", with their development being heavily influenced by the "City Beautiful Movement". Most of the city's integral governmental institutions are located here; like City Hall which dominates the Civic Center with it's impressive "Beaux-Arts" style dome. There are two main plazas in the area; Civic Center Plaza and United Nations Plaza. The Civic Center Plaza (in front of City Hall) has been a popular place for holding rallies, protests, and festivals. As well as being a hub for city government, the area is also a serious cultural center. "Culture vultures" flock here at night to see performances of the San Francsico opera, symphony, and ballet, as well as to attend theater, galas, concerts, plays, and special events. During the day you can get your "culture fix" by visiting one of the many excellent museums and galleries such as the Asian Art Museum, San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum, and the San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery. There are also several other smaller private galleries in the area.

Architecture aficionados will be happy to know that some of the most beautiful buildings in the city are cloistered within a few square blocks here. Examples include, The War Memorial Opera House, the Asian Art Museum, the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, and the War Memorial Veterans building with the Herbst Theater (the U.N. charter was signed in Herbst Theater in 1945).

There is also a popular farmers market held twice weekly in United Nations Plaza.

[edit] Tenderloin

Many guidebooks will tell you to avoid a large part of downtown — the Tenderloin. It's true that this "bad neighborhood" is rife with panhandlers, adult bookstores, and massage parlors, but it's also full of good, cheap ethnic restaurants and colorful dive bars. The 'Loin is probably the last area of downtown to experience real gentrification, a process that seems to be taking its time, but the early signs are already here. Culture vultures will find several cutting edge, alternative/experimental theaters and high-culture galleries, which are attracted by the neighborhoods low rents and proximity to downtown. Sleek lounges and trendy clubs are also increasingly making a home in this eclectic neighborhood, side by side with the traditional dive bars it has always been known for.

The name "Tenderloin" comes from the overall shape of the area's boundaries: triangular, like the cross-section of a tenderloin steak. According to a different explanation the area was originally called "The Tenderloin" by the police officers, since they were paid more to work there — the most notorious part of the town. There are many different ways to define its boundaries; the official and original three corners (making a Tenderloin shape) may be delineated by Market St and Larkin St to the south, Geary St and Larkin St to the northwest, and Market St by Geary St to the northeast. Today the area would be more better defined between Polk St, Sutter St, Mason St, Market St, and Golden Gate Ave.

Although it has a reputation as one of the tougher parts of town, in reality the Tenderloin is quite variegated and can change drastically from block to block. There are many different sub-neighborhoods within the 'Loin. Much of the area on the east side of Mason St (above O'Farrell St) is high-rent and more properly considered part of downtown Union Square. The western area around Hyde and Larkin Sts, from Turk St to O'Farrell St, is a colorful Vietnamese neighborhood known as "Little Saigon".

Geary St, Post St, and Sutter St, especially the blocks west of Jones St, are part of the so-called "Tendernob" or "Tenderloin Heights" bordering Nob Hill; sometimes this definition also includes southern Nob Hill as far north as California St or Sacramento St (especially the western blocks around Polk St). The Tendernob (at least on the 'Loin side) is considered a nightlife hotspot by some folks who like their drinking milieu a bit rough around the edges. It connects with Polk St on the western edge of the Tenderloin. Known variously as "Polk Gulch", "Polk Village", or the "Outer Tenderloin", this very lively area of Polk St, from Geary St to Union St, is populated with all types of restaurants, cafes, bars, venues, bookstores, and other shops. Finally, an area bordered by O'Farrell, Geary, Leavenworth, and Taylor Sts, is sometimes called the "Tandoor-loin" because of the high concentration of excellent and affordable Indian restaurants.

Two famous novels that were set in the Tenderloin are; William Vollman’s Whores for Gloria and Dashiell Hammett's The Maltese Falcon. The movie adaptation for the Maltese Falcon was also set in the Tenderloin.

[edit] Get in

Map of the Civic Center-Tenderloin
Map of the Civic Center-Tenderloin

[edit] By car

Directions for driving to the Civic Center are marked on the freeways. Once inside the City limits, two main arteries serve the area — Van Ness Ave and Market St.

There are several garages, such as the Performing Arts Garage at Grove St and Gough St, an underground garage under the Civic Center Plaza (entrance on McAllister St), open from 6AM to Midnight, or 24-hour valet parking at Opera Plaza on Turk St just off Van Ness Ave. Where the freeway was prior to 1989 earthquake (between Grove St at Gough St and Turk St at Franklin St) there are several smaller open air lots, which will charge about $10 for all day or $6 for an evening. Those lots are gradually being displaced by new construction. Street parking in the Tenderloin is extremely difficult to find, but parking garages are plentiful.

[edit] By MUNI

The neighborhood is well-served by public transit, provided by MUNI [1] in the form of the Metro system, the F-Line streetcar and various bus lines. MUNI Metro lines J, K,L, M and N serve the Powell/Market and Civic Center/United Nations Plaza stations under Market St along with the BART line. The MUNI Metro also serves the Van Ness/Market station, which is part of the same subway tunnel but is not shared with BART.

The historic F streetcar line (regular $1.50 Muni fare, $0.50 for seniors) runs on Market St between Castro St and the Ferry Building (where it turns north on The Embarcadero to Fisherman's Wharf), passing by both the Civic Center and the Tenderloin.

From the CalTrain station the #47 bus takes you to along the western border of the area (Van Ness Ave) to City Hall. Other MUNI bus lines serving the area are: 49 Van Ness, 9 San Bruno, 31 Balboa, 5 Fulton, 19 Polk, 21 Hayes and 38 Geary.

Civic Center BART Station
Civic Center BART Station

[edit] By BART

BART [2] runs under Market St with two stops in the area; both the Powell/Market and Civic Center/United Nations Plaza Both BART stations will put you well within walking distance of any Tenderloin attraction; the latter is the most convenient BART stop for the Civic Center.

[edit] By cable car

One or other of two cable car lines can take you from Fisherman's Wharf, Chinatown, Nob Hill, or Russian Hill to the intersection of Market St and Powell St in Union Square — near the Powell/Market BART and Muni station. From here it's just one block to the Tenderloin. The fare is $5 each way ($1 for seniors or disabled before 7AM and after 9PM), or use a Muni all-day Passport ($11).

  • The Powell/Mason cable car [3]
  • The Powell/Hyde cable car [4]

[edit] On foot

Given that the area is centrally located downtown, it is extremely accessible on foot. From the SoMa area walk northbound on anywhere from Fifth St to 11th St. Market St forms its broad southern boundary and makes the area easily accessible from either the east (Union Square-Financial District) or west (The Castro), and from the north (Nob Hill-Russian Hill) it's just a 10-20 minute walk directly due south.

[edit] Get around

As this is a relatively small area, the best way to get around is on foot. To help you navigate around there is a Visitor Information Center [5] located at 900 Market St on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza, next door to the cable car turntable at Powell and Market streets. The V.I.C. is open M-F 9AM-5PM; Sa, Su, and holidays 9AM-3PM, PST. Telephone inquiries may be made M-F from 8:30AM to 5PM PST, by calling +1 415 391-2000 or +1 415 392-0328.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Little Saigon (Sài Gòn Nhỏ), (Larkin St between Eddy St and O'Farrell St). A tiny two block strip of Larkin St houses an active Vietnamese American community where the vast majority of shops and restaurants are Vietnamese owned and operated. Little Saigon functions as a both a Vietnamese commercial and cultural center, and there are some excellent restaurants and stores here. edit

[edit] Museums and galleries

  • The Art Institute of California — San Francisco, 1170 Market St (at Civic Center Plaza), ☎ +1 415 865-0198 (, fax: +1 415 863-5831), [6]. Check their website for a schedule of exhibits. The institute holds public multimedia exhibitions in the fields of media arts, fashion, animation and design. edit
Asian Art Museum
Asian Art Museum
  • Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin St (between McAllister St and Fulton St), ☎ +1 415 581-3500 (, fax: +1 415 581-4700), [7]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM (with extended evening hours every Th until 9PM) Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day. Built in 1917, and formerly the old library building, this building is a fantastic blend of "Beaux Arts" and modern design elements. It was designed by renowned architect Gae Aulenti (architect of the Musée d'Orsay, Paris). Inside, you'll find many interesting architectural details including the grand staircase, loggia, vaulted ceilings, the great hall, stone floors, period light fixtures, and inscriptions. The museum is one of the largest and newest museums of Oriental art. It has circa 15,000 artifacts covering 6,000 years of Asian history. The Asian Art Museum hosts many special exhibits as well.First Sunday of every month: Free Adults: $12, Seniors 65 and older with ID: $8, College students with ID and youths ages 13 through 17: $7, Children 12 and under and SFUSD students with ID: Free, Th evenings at a reduced rate ($5) after 5PM.  edit

  • Frey Norris Gallery, 456 Geary St (between Mason St and Taylor St), ☎ +1 415 346-7812 (, fax: +1 415 346-7877), [8]. Tu-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Their gallery features contemporary art from a broad range of media. Their Annex exhibits female surrealist art covering the 1920s to the 1970s.Free.  edit
  • John Pence Gallery, 750 Post St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 441-1138 (, fax: +1 415 441-1178), [9]. M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM. This 8,000 square foot gallery exhibits art of the realism movement (particularly academic realism) as well as "Beat Generation" art works.Free.  edit

  • Linc Art Gallery, 1632C Market St (between Franklin and St Gough St), ☎ +1 415 503-1981 (), [10]. Tu-Sa noon-6PM. Lincart exhibits contemporary fine art and design at their gallery. Since its inception in 2000, it has exhibited over 50 shows, most of which were solo exhibitions from artists like Yayoi Kusama, Graham Gillmore, Tucker Nichols, and Pip Culbert.Free.  edit
  • Luggage Store Gallery, 1007 Market St (at 6th St), ☎ +1 415 255-5971 (), [11]. W-Sa noon-5PM. They organize exhibitions, performing arts events, arts education, and public art programs in order to encourage and facilitate the flow of artistic ideas between the different cultural and socio-economic stratums in society. They also host exhibits at the Luggage Store Annex (a.k.a. 509 Cultural Center) at 509 Ellis Street (near Leavenworth St).Free.  edit

  • San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Ave (at McAllister St), ☎ +1 415 554-6080 (, fax: +1 415 554-6093), [12]. The Gallery at 401 Van Ness: W-Sa noon-5PM, The Window Site at 155 Grove St: 24 hours daily, Art at City Hall: M-F 8AM-8PM. The San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery supports a diverse range of Bay Area "Visual Art" culture by supporting artists projects through collaboration with community organizations, commissioning contemporary art, and curated exhibitions. They also have window installations at 155 Grove St and another in City Hall.Free.  edit
  • San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Ave, 4th Floor (at McAllister St), ☎ +1 415 255-4800 (), [13]. Library Hours: W-F 11AM-5PM, Sa 1PM-5PM; Exhibition Hours: Tu-F 11AM-5PM; Sa 1PM-5PM.. The Museum is dedicated to celebrating all aspects of the performing arts in San Francisco, from the mid 19th century to the present day. It hosts exhibitions and lectures by leading artists to encourage an appreciation of the diversity of the performing arts.Free.  edit

[edit] Parks and monuments

  • Civic Center Plaza, (between Polk St and McAllister St). This grassy plaza is situated at the heart of the Civic Center and its tree-lined central avenue visually draws the eye to the imposing structure of City Hall. Protests and demonstrations of all political persuasions are frequently staged here. There is a parking lot underneath the plaza. edit
  • James Lick (Pioneer) Monument, (behind the Mail Library branch - near the Asian Art Museum). The monument is a tribute to California and its early pioneers like Sir Francis Drake. Atop sits a bear, and a man carrying both spear and shied — all three objects are imagery that represent California. edit
  • Large Four Piece Reclining Figure, 201 Van Ness Ave. This bronze sculpture was created by English artist Henry Moore in 1973. It poses happily outside Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. edit
  • Sgt. John Macaulay Park, (Larkin St and O'Farrell St). Named in honor of a police sergeant who died on duty, this vibrantly colored park and playground only allows adults in if they are accompanied by kids. It has become a bit of an urban oasis set amidst the grittiness of the Tenderloin. edit
  • United Nations Plaza, (at Market St and Hyde St). The UN Charter was signed in the Civic Center in 1975, and this plaza was constructed in honor of its ideology. Designed by architect Lawrence Halprin, and completed in 1975, this is a three acre red-bricked pedestrian plaza. Brick columns inscribed with UN members country names line the plaza, and the UN Fountain sits at its center. Intended to be a visual gateway to the Civic Center, today it's more of a pit stop for homeless people. edit

[edit] Architecture

The Civic Center with its "Classical" architecture was declared a national landmark in 1978. It has several buildings that are of architectural interest including the Asian Art Museum listed under Museums and galleries above; as well as the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, the buildings that comprise the San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center (SFWMPAC), the Orpheum Theater, Golden Gate Theater, the Curran Theater, and the interior of the Great American Music Hall, which are all listed under Performing arts below. Other architectural points of interest include:

  • Alcazar Theater, 650 Geary St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 441-4042 (fax: +1 415 441-9567). M-Sa 9:30AM-5PM. Built in 1911 in honor of the Shriners (Ancient Arabic Order of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine); this Byzantine-style Islamic temple (now a 500 seat theater showing Broadway and off-Broadway shows), is now a historical city landmark. The architect was T Patterson Ross.Free.  edit
City Hall's "Beaux-Arts" Dome
City Hall's "Beaux-Arts" Dome
  • City Hall, 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place (between Van Ness Ave, McAllister St, Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place, and Grove St), ☎ +1 415 554-4933 (, fax: +1 415 554-4936), [14]. Brochures are available for visitors to take a self-guided tour: M-F 8AM-8PM Docent led tours: M–F 10AM, noon, 2PM. Designed by Arthur Brown Jr., and opened in 1915, the architecture of the building was heavily influenced by the "City Beautiful Movement," which in turn reflected the American Renaissance style of the time. Its "Beaux-Arts" dome (the fifth largest in the world) was modeled after that of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, Italy. The building itself is huge, 393 feet long, by 273 feet wide, and 307 feet high — occupying a full two blocks of San Francisco's downtown real estate. It is considered by many admirers to be the most impressive building in the city. Inside, it features a large rotunda with a grandiose staircase leading up to the second floor. The walls are adorned with oak paneling and the ceilings with crystal chandeliers. In 1954 Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe wed here.Tours: Self guided and docent led tours are free unless you're a private group of eight or more persons.  edit
  • Federal Office Building, 50 United Nations Plaza (just north of Market St, between Hyde St and Leavenworth St). Architect, Arthur Brown Jr., who also designed City Hall and several other Civic Center landmarks, designed this building. It was completed in 1936 making it the last building to be completed in the seven-building complex of the Civic Center. It is an interesting six story, D-shaped, "Beaux Arts" building. It also has a 24,000 square-foot interior courtyard and many of its features such as the lobby and main stairway are subject to historical preservation laws. Unfortunately, the building is currently closed and can only be appreciated from the outside.Free.  edit
  • San Francisco Public Library - Main Library, 100 Larkin St (at Grove St), ☎ +1 415 557-4400 (), [15]. T-Th 9AM-8PM, F-Sa noon-6PM, Su noon-5PM, M 10AM-6PM; Tour Hours: Offered on the first Tuesday of every month at noon. Completed in 1995 at a cost of $109 million, the main library branch is over 375,000 square feet of modern architecture. It has seven floors, over 2,000 seats, and an impressive foyer that has a five story high atrium. At the top of the atrium is a bright sky-light and a roof terrace.Internet: Free Tours: Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Dashiell Hammett Walking Tour, 100 Larkin St (n.w. corner of the new main library), ☎ +1 510 287-9540 (), [16]. May and Oct: Su noon-4PM. If you're a fan of mystery books, film, or would just like to recapture what San Francisco was like in the 1920s and 1930s; then you'll love this tour. It takes you round all the places where Hammett wrote his famous books. It also visits the exact locales where his famous characters like Continental Op and Sam Spade got into their storied adventures. The tour is about 4 hours long.$10.  edit
  • Glide Memorial Church, 330 Ellis St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☎ +1 415 674-6000 (), [17]. M 7AM-2:30AM, Tu,Th 7AM-11:45PM, W,F 7AM-11PM, Sa-Su 7AM-1:30PM. Famous for its gospel music, as well as for its inner-city missions. The church is a pillar of this community and plays a vital role in Tenderloin day-to-day life; anyone truly trying to understand the area should visit here. Sunday services are a major musical event attracting crowds, and yes, even long lines to get in!Free.  edit
  • Heart of the City Farmer’s Market, United Nations Plaza (just north of Market St, between Hyde St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 558-9455. Su 7AM-5PM, W 7AM-5:30PM. The farmer's market held Sundays and Wednesdays offers a less expensive alternative to the yuppie Ferry Building Farmer's Market, though it helps if you're seeking the ingredients for Asian food. On other days, there are often tents with vendors selling jewelry, scarves, clothing, snacks, house wares, and who-knows-what. The fun is in the surprises.Free.  edit
  • St. Boniface, 133 Golden Gate Ave (just off Jones St), ☎ +1 415 863-7515 (, fax: +1 415 863-7602), [18]. The Catholic church features its original elaborately decorated interior from 1900, so why not come in and say a prayer! A Franciscan parish, it is also known for allowing the homeless to sleep in the pews on weekdays.Free.  edit
  • San Francisco City Guides, Main Library, 100 Larkin St (at Market St), ☎ +1 415 557-4266 (), [19]. Tours are offered year round, times and dates vary by tour - see website for schedule. They offer walking tours of the Civic Center, the Tenderloin, the main library, and City Hall, free of charge. The tours highlight the history, architecture, culture, events, and folklore of the area.Free.  edit

[edit] Performing arts

Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall — take it away, maestro!
Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall — take it away, maestro!

The Civic Center is the center of opera, ballet, symphony, and theater in the city. Even if one hasn't bought a ticket in advance, there are often returned tickets available at the box offices before a performance. Make a night of it when you are here; take a walk around the Civic Center, enjoy the architecture, sit for dinner, or just have a cappuccino in one of the cafes before the overture.

  • The Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, 99 Grove St (between Dr. Carlton B Goodlett Pl and Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 974-4060 (fax: +1 415 974-4073), [20]. The auditorium is not open to visitors or for tours, but only during event times which vary. This four story tall, "Beaux-Arts" style building occupies an entire city block in the heart of the Civic Center and has 7,000 seats inside. Large and small bands, exhibits, concerts, and galas are all hosted at the Civic Auditorium. Check Ticketmaster to see what's playing [21].Price varies depending on act.  edit
  • EXIT Theatre, 156 Eddy St (between Mason St and Taylor St), ☎ +1 415 673-3847 (, fax: +1 415 931 2699), [22]. See website for exact hours. EXIT Theatre is a no-frills experimental/alternative theater in the Tenderloin. There are two performance spaces inside: Exit Theatre and Exit Stage Left; they have another theater "EXIT on Taylor" which is located at 277 Taylor St. They host productions like "Waiting for FEMA" and "Babylon Heights" by Irvine Welsh. They also host the Fringe Festival (listed under Events and festivals below), which is the largest grass roots theater festival in the San Francisco Bay Area.$6-$9.  edit
  • Great American Music Hall, 859 O'Farrell St (between Larkin St and Polk St), ☎ +1 415 885-0750 (, fax: +1 415 885-5075), [23]. Shows: Hours Vary Box Office: M-F 10:30AM-6PM, Show Nights 10:30AM-9PM, Closed Sa-Su (except during shows - opens 1 hour before show time). Reputed to be the city's oldest nightclub, this ornate 600 capacity music venue presents hip music acts, some well-known among the cognoscenti, some so cutting edge that there's blood on the pavement. In the 1930s, this was fan-dancer Sally Rand's "Music Box." The interior, which was designed by a French architect, is known for its ornate balconies and columns.Ticket prices vary by act but typically run from $10-$30.  edit
  • Last Planet Theatre, 351 Turk St (between Hyde St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 440-3505, [24]. See website for performance dates/times. Producing what they call "dream plays," the Last Planet Theater is a niche experimental theater that eschews the conventions of mainstream theater.About $18.  edit
  • The New Conservatory Theatre Center, 25 Van Ness Ave (half a block from Market St and the Van Ness MUNI station), ☎ +1 415 861-8972 (), [25]. Box Office Hours: W-Sa 1:30PM-7PM, Su-Tu noon-3PM Show Times: Performances are typically W-Sa 8PM, Su 2PM, year round. The three small New Conservatory theaters present novel, musical, comic, and educational plays.Tickets generally cost $18-$40.  edit
  • Phoenix Theater, 414 Mason St, Suite 601 (at Geary St), ☎ +1 415 861-8972 (, fax: +1 415 664-5001), [26]. See website for performance dates/times. The Phoenix is a small theater that showcases the work of local and international playwrights.About $25.  edit

  • San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center, 401 Van Ness Ave, Room 110 (between Grove St and McAllister St), ☎ +1 415 621-6600 (, fax: +1 415 621-5091), [27]. Tour hours: M 10AM-2PM — on the hour. This 7.5 acre complex comprises the War Memorial Opera House, Memorial Court, the War Memorial Veterans Building (including Herbst Theatre and the Green Room — which is a classically styled reception hall), the Harold L. Zellerbach Rehearsal Hall, and Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. The opera house and the veterans buildings (which are for the most part identical), along with the court, were intended to be appreciated in unison, and to compliment the surrounding architecture of the Civic Center. Their "Beaux-Arts" structures employ the Roman Doric Order and were designed by architect Arthur Brown, Jr. Both buildings were completed in 1932. Guided tours of the buildings are available.Free.  edit
  • Herbst Theater, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Ave (at McAllister St), ☎ +1 415 392-4400 (, fax: +1 415 986-0411), [28]. Box office: Opens 1.5 hours prior to performance. Herbst Theater, next to the Opera house in the similarly-styled War Memorial Veteran's building is host to a wide variety of activities. One can find plays, readings by well-known authors, chamber music, jazz performances, etc throughout the year. The monthly Friday evening talks of the Long-now Foundation [29], projecting the far future, are presented here or in the Fort Mason Center. Inside the theater it has impressive foyer, chandeliers, beaux-arts murals (symbolism for the different aspects of mankind), and over 900 seats. The UN Charter was signed here in 1945.Adult: $18-$81 Child: $10.  edit
  • San Francisco Ballet, War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave (at Grove St), ☎ +1 415 861-5600 (, fax: +1 415 865-0740), [30]. Box Office: M-F 10AM-4PM (10AM until start of performance on performance dates Performances: T-Su usually 8PM or 7:30PM with Sa-Su matinee 2PM. The repertory season begins in January and continues through May.$18-$250.  edit
War Memorial Opera House
War Memorial Opera House
  • San Francisco Opera, War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave (at Grove St), ☎ +1 415 864-3330 (fax: +1 415 626-1729), [31]. Box Office: M 10AM-5PM, Tu-F 10AM-6PM Performances: Tu-F usually 7:30PM or 8PM, Sa 12:30PM or 8PM, Su 1PM, 2PM, or 3PM. See website for exact schedule. There are Fall, Spring, and Summer seasons. The summer season focuses on lighter and popular operas. Performances are in the War Memorial Opera House on Van Ness Ave which has over 3,000 seats. The interior has a grandiose entrance hall with marble floors and a 38 foot high barrel vaulted ceiling. Two wide marble stairways at either end of the foyer, take you up to the main floor. The proscenium arch inside the theater is ornately decorated with gilded sculptures. In December and late spring the Opera House is used by the San Francisco Ballet.$15-$290.  edit
  • San Francisco Symphony, Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave (at Grove St and Van Ness Ave), ☎ +1 415 864-6000 (, fax: +1 415 554-0108), [32]. Box Office: M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa noon-6PM Performances: W-Su usually 8PM or 8:30PM with Sa-Su matinee 2PM, See website for exact schedule. San Francisco has an excellent symphony orchestra, with Michael Tilson Thomas (MTT) as the principal conductor. The Season goes from September to April, with a break in the middle of December and January. When the San Francisco Symphony is on tour, other orchestras visit to fill the void. In July there is a "Summer in the City" program of light music; August is quiet. Opened in 1980, the building's sweeping wraparound architecture was elegantly designed to compliment the other buildings in the War Memorial complex. Inside, the building was designed to maximize acoustical tones with the exterior glass wall being used as a backdrop to capture sound. To further enhance and refine the sound it has adjustable acrylic acoustical panels around the stage area. There are circa 2,700 seats inside.$10-$50.  edit

  • SHN, 1192 Market St (at McAllister St), ☎ +1 415 551-2000 (recorded information) or +1 415 551-2075 (, fax: +1 415 431-5052), [33]. Show times: vary Box office hours: vary, See website for details. SHN runs three theaters in the area that focus on the usual Broadway classics like A Chorus Line, Grease, and of course The Phantom of the Opera.$25-$99.  edit
The historic Orpheum Theater
The historic Orpheum Theater
  • Curran Theater, 445 Geary St (between Taylor St and Mason St), [34]. Built in 1922, this theater was designed by architect Alfred Henry Jacobs. It has a very ornate and well-maintained interior featuring chandeliers and an intricately hand-painted ceilings. edit
  • Golden Gate Theater, 1 Taylor St (at Golden Gate Ave), [35]. Built in 1920 and influenced by the "Art Deco" and "Gothic Revival" styles, this theater has over 2,800 seats. It was designed by architect Gustave Albert Lansburgh. edit
  • The Orpheum Theater, 1192 Market St (at McAllister St), [36]. Over 80 years old, this official historical landmark theater received a another facelift in 1998; it now has over 2,400 seats. The theater has hosted everything from silent films to Broadway theater, and special shows such as "Late Night with Conan O'Brien." It is modeled in the style of a 12th century Spanish Cathedral, being heavily influenced by both "Spanish Moorish" and "Spanish Baroque" architecture. It has ornate architectural detailing inside and was designed by architect Benjamin Marcus Priteca. edit
  • Warfield Theater, 982 Market St (between Mason St and Taylor St), ☎ +1 415 567-2060. Hours vary but shows usually start at 8PM. This historic theater on Market St has a balcony and approximately 2,700 seats. Built in the 1920s, it was renovated in 1969 and today it is as popular as ever hosting some major acts like Velvet Revolver and Bill Maher.Prices vary depending on act.  edit

[edit] Events and festivals

  • Black and White Ball, Civic Center Plaza, ☎ +1 415 864-6000, [37]. Takes place once every two years in May. If you have the budget, why not "hob-nob" at San Francisco's classiest party. Taking up four entire blocks of the Civic Center, this ball attracts a well-heeled crowd, as well as those who who are just splurging. The ball began in 1956 and features several high profile bands (the Grateful Dead played here in 1969), and includes a performance by the San Francisco Symphony orchestra. $200 gets you in the door, feeds you, and lets you enjoy the music, dancing, and entertainment. If you want to formally dine at the Patrons Dinner, you'll have to shell out a lot more.$200-$3,000.  edit

  • Fringe Festival, 156 Eddy St (between Taylor St and Mason St), (), [38]. 12 Days, beginning the Wednesday after Labor Day. See website for exact performance hours. This bohemian 10 day festival is all about theatrical experimentation and having fun...even if you don't know what you're doing exactly. Chaos rules here; even the list of performers are selected randomly at the last minute and participants are effectively given "carte blanche" to be as artistically free as possible. This leads to a lot of wackiness and of course a healthy dose of good old nudity! It takes place in several theaters but it is run by the EXIT Theater in the Tenderloin.$7-$8 per performance, Frequent Fringer Pass (all 10 Days): $55.  edit
  • San Francisco Pride Festival, (All streets between Van Ness Ave, Market St, Golden Gate Ave, and Hayes St), ☎ +1 415 864-3733 (, fax: +1 415 864-5889), [39]. Final full weekend in June: Sa noon-6PM, Su noon-7PM. Known as "San Francisco Pride" for short, it's one of the largest gay pride festivals in North America, a huge, happy, chaotic celebration of diversity, politics, sexuality, and San Francisco wackiness. The two day festival grew up around the parade (below) which takes place on Sunday. Some seven city blocks between City Hall and Market St are closed to vehicles, and about a dozen stages and spaces offer everything from square dancing to hip-hop, from a family garden to Leather Alley. Hundreds of businesses, community groups, non-profits, and political groups attempt to connect with hundreds of thousands of celebrants. It's a movement, it's a market, and it’s a party. Car and bus traffic is interrupted during the celebration, and parking is even worse than usual; take BART or Muni trains (which run underground, and put on extra cars to carry the load) instead. Both parade and celebration are for everyone — straight as well as gay are welcome.Free (donations encouraged).  edit
  • San Francisco Pride Parade, (Along Market St from Beale St to 8th St), ☎ +1 415 864-3733 (, fax: +1 415 864-5889), [40]. Final full weekend in June: Su only 10AM-2PM (approx). San Francisco's annual "Gay Pride Parade" long ago grew into a two-day "Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender Pride Celebration" (see above). The parade itself, which takes place on the Sunday, features over a hundred contingents, and takes over four hours from start to finish. Hundreds of thousands of people line the parade route to watch. If you want a good spot, arrive two hours before the 10AM start, and set up closer to Beale St than the Civic Center. Be careful about climbing on bus shelters, scaffolding, or light poles to get a better view: people do fall and injure themselves. The only thing better than watching the parade is marching in it. If you can make contact in advance, you likely can find some contingent with affinity which will welcome you.Free.  edit

  • Tet Festival, Larkin St and Ellis St, ☎ +1 415 351-1038 (, fax: +1 415 351-1039), [41]. Mid-January to mid-February 9:30AM–6PM. Celebrate New Year's Vietnamese style at this festival. It attracts almost 30,000 each year to the area. It's mostly Vietnamese-Americans in attendance, but everyone is welcome and it's a great opportunity to sample some of the delicious Vietnamese dishes that they have in the Tenderloin, and of course to throw around some "lucky-money."Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

There are very few chain stores here and limited shopping opportunities. This has probably got more to do with socio-economic reasons than anything else. If you are looking for your more recognizable stores try its glamorous neighbor Union Square, and on the other side of Market St in the SoMa neighborhood, you'll find plenty of large shopping malls. What this area does have however, is a varied collection of smaller esoteric stores.

  • Karma Culture, 682 Geary St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 674-9600. A small family owned Thai store that focuses on women’s apparel, gifts and varied knickknacks. Reasonable prices and accommodating staff — sometimes you get to pick a free gift on the way out...like a small purse, incense or candles. edit
  • Kayo Books, 814 Post St (at Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 749-0554 (), [42]. Th-Sa 11AM-6PM. "Specializing in vintage collectible paperbacks from the 1940s to 1970s and esoteric books of all persuasions..." They have a large stock of rare and out of print books, many of which are of the lurid and sleazy persuasion. edit

  • Napa Valley Winery Exchange, 415 Taylor St (between Geary St and O'Farrell St), ☎ +1 415 771-2887 (, fax: +1 415 441-9463), [43]. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 10AM-5PM. Well known wine store featuring hard to get and small production wines. edit
  • San Francisco Antique and Artisans Market, United Nations Plaza (at Market St), ☎ +1 415 255-1923 (), [44]. M, Th, and F 8AM-6PM. Three times a week, over 100 vendors come together to sell antiques, gifts, and keepsakes from all over the world. Appropriately the market is held at UN Plaza. edit
  • San Francisco Art Exchange, 458 Geary St (between Taylor and Mason St), ☎ +1 415 4418840 (, fax: +1 415 673-3697), [45]. Su-W 10AM-6PM, Th-Sa 9AM-10PM. This is a gallery for those interested in rock paintings and photographs, and they also sport a large Beatles collection and paintings by Ronnie Wood and Alberto Vargas. A must for music enthusiasts, if you have the budget.Prices are high, with most pieces over $1,000 dollars.  edit
  • Shooting Gallery, 839 Larkin St (between Geary St and Myrtle St), ☎ +1 415 931-8035, [46]. Tu-Sa noon-7PM. Accessible and real art gallery. On it white-washed walls it features its latest raw art — "Low Brow" (school/gutter-punk art) and also erotic art. edit
  • Space Gallery, 1141 Polk St (between Hemlock St and Sutter St), ☎ +1 415 377-3325 (), [47]. M-Sa 4PM-2AM. Two story art gallery that has a full bar serving wine, beer and cocktails. This place is super-hip — they even serve 40oz bottles of Olde English Malt Liquor! edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget $10 or less
Mid-range $10 - 20
Splurge $20 or more

Given the sometimes grittiness of the area, much of the food is very affordable. Vietnamese, Thai, and Indian restaurants are well represented in the Tenderloin. One of the best options for a cheap lunch is picking up a "Vietnamese sandwich" from any of a number of corner delis in the area (they're packed especially thick along Larkin St). For about $2.50 you can expect to get a generous helping of your choice of meat and shredded vegetables sandwiched into a quarter of a baguette and dressed with a thin, tangy sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to bring cash, as these places don't take any credit cards. There is actually a decent selection of restaurants in the area, but if you are not satisfied, there are many other excellent eateries just west of the Civic Center, around Hayes St, and northeast of the Tenderloin around Chinatown and North Beach. Generally speaking, for mid-range to high-end restaurants in the area seating is easier around 8PM, when opera and symphony patrons depart.

[edit] Budget

Vietnamese "Beef stew pho" — Delish!
Vietnamese "Beef stew pho" — Delish!
  • Ananda Fuara, 1298 Market St (at Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 621-1994 (fax: +1 415 934-1923), [48]. W 8AM-3PM Th-Tu 8AM-8PM. This vegetarian restaurant is a little different as it's run by an Indian religious order called 'Sri Chinmoy'. Ananda Fuara means the "Fountain of Delight" and their food is intended to harmonize you both inside and out.$6-$11.  edit
  • Bang San, 505 Jones St (between Geary St and O'Farrell St), ☎ +1 415 440-2610 (, fax: +1 415 440-2610), [49]. M-W and Su 11AM-11PM, Th-Sa 11AM-2AM. This tiny hole-in-the-wall serves up some of the best darn Thai food this side of the Mekong River. They have 12 categories of dishes from which to choose. Sit down, order, and watch as delicious food is cooked before your eyes.$5-$8.  edit
  • Chutney, 511 Jones St (at O'Farrell St), ☎ +1 415 931-5541, [50]. noon-midnight daily. Affordable and excellent selection of authentic Indian food. Speedy service and filling portions, and free Chai tea for all customers. A recent addition and a neighborhood favorite.$5-$8.  edit
  • Dottie's True Blue Cafe, 522 Jones St (between Geary St and O'Farrell St), ☎ +1 415 885-2767. W-M 7:30AM-3PM. Top-rated breakfast cafe in the Tenderloin and a top contender in San Francisco proper. Affordable food with friendly service; comfortable, intimate atmosphere, and excellent food. Arrive 30 minutes early to stand in line with all the other admirers.$3-$12.  edit
  • Golden Era Vegetarian Restaurant, 572 O'Farrell St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 673-3136 (fax: +1 415 351-1682), [51]. W-M 11AM-9PM. This pleasant, quiet restaurant specializes in the sort of seitan-based, faux-meat concoctions that will make a hardcore carnivore happy, and may make a lifelong vegetarian feel a bit squeamish. Nonetheless, the vegetarian "lamb" clay pot is something to try. Everything can be served vegan upon request.$5.50-$9.25.  edit
  • Joey's Laundry, 517 O'Farrell St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 567-4401. 6AM-9PM. What is a laundry doing under 'Eat'? Joey's serves Mitchell's Ice Cream, widely recognized as the best in the Bay Area. If you're bored with chocolate, strawberry, and vanilla, try the green tea or macapuno ice creams. For the launderer seeking more solid sustenance — or if you get hungry while using their internet access ($7.50 per hour) — there are breakfast pastries, pizza slices, and coffee.$4-10.  edit
  • Mela Tandoori Kitchen, 417 O'Farrell St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☎ +1 415 447-4041 (, fax: +1 415 447-4028), [52]. M-F 10AM-11PM, Sa 11AM-9PM. The jewel-like atmosphere, complete with marble floors and a tiled fountain, is the real draw at this inexpensive Indian restaurant. Candles, drapes, wall sconces and ululating music make for a charming setting. The food itself isn't quite as scintillating, but you do get your money's worth.$5.95-$11.95.  edit
  • Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe, 887 Geary St (Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 928-0158. M-Sa 7AM-2PM, Su 7:30AM-2PM. If you can't stomach the line (or the hipster clientele) at Dottie's, the Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe around the corner on Geary offers solid grub at much cheaper prices. The elderly couple who run the place are always friendly and never hurry you, and the shabby faux-French decor is weirdly charming despite liberal amounts of duct tape holding the place together.$3-$7.  edit
  • Old Chelsea, 932 Larkin St (between Geary St and Post St), ☎ +1 415 474-5015. 4PM-11PM daily. As well as supplying fish-and-chip orders for the Edinburgh Castle bar around the corner, the Old Chelsea offers take-out. You'll want to take your order out, as seating is limited to two somewhat sticky tables, and the air is hot with grease. The fish justifies the trip.$6-$10.  edit
  • Olympic Flames Cafe, 555 Geary St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☎ +1 415 885-0984. 6AM-4PM daily. Spacious, affordable and home-cooked breakfast joint. Excellent omelettes. This is a viable alternative of Dottie's True Blue Cafe which almost always seems to have a line.$4.50-$8.50.  edit
  • Pakwan, 501 O'Farrell St (at Jones St), ☎ +1 415 255-2440, [53]. noon-11PM daily. Pakistani food featuring curries, tandoori fish, and piping hot naan. Unlike some of the local eateries in the "tandoori-loin," the seating is clean, comfortable, and fairly new (possibly the results of some other restaurant's going-out-of-business sale). The restaurant tends to be comparatively quiet, as well as offering an excellent view of police actions on Jones St.$6-$10.  edit
  • Shalimar, 532 Jones St (between O'Farrell St and Geary St), ☎ +1 415 928-0333 (), [54]. noon-midnight daily. Northern Indian/Pakistani food, they have a tandoor (clay oven) which means excellent naan (flat breads) and murgh boti (barbecue chicken). The curries and rice pilaf are also worth checking out for their unique combination of spices.$3-$10.  edit
  • Tommy's Joynt, 1101 Geary St (at Van Ness Ave), ☎ +1 415 775-4216 (, fax: +1 415 775-3322), [55]. Restaurant: 11AM-1:45AM, Bar: 10AM-1:45AM. Open since 1947 Tommy's is a classic San Francisco eatery and bar. You can't miss this place — on both the inside and out it's colorful and quirkily decorated. They serve wholesome, filling food like "hand-carved" sandwiches, stews, and mash potatoes...Yummm, Yummm!!$4-$10.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Bodega Bistro, 607 Larkin St (at Eddy St), ☎ +1 415 21-1218 (fax: +1 415 921-1216), [56]. Lunch: 11AM-3PM daily, Dinner: Su-W 5PM-9:30PM daily, Th-Sa 5PM-10PM daily. In Vietnamese Bo-de-ga in Vietnamese means beef-lamb-chicken — all popular Vietnamese dishes. The menu also draws equal inspiration from French cuisine making this an unusual dining experience.$8-$23.  edit
  • Kim Thanh, 607 Geary St (at Jones St), ☎ +1 415 928-6627 (fax: +1 415 928-7821). M-F 11AM-11PM, Sa-Su 5PM-11PM. Check out the aquariums in the window if you want to know what's for dinner. If you've never seen a geoduck, you will not soon forget it.$7-$12.  edit
  • Kyoto Sushi, 1233 Van Ness Ave (at Post St), ☎ +1 415 351-1234, [57]. M-Th 11AM-10:30PM, F 11AM-11PM, Sa 11:30AM-11PM, Su 4:30PM-10:30PM. With the multitude of sushi places it is hard to say which is best, but this one rates at the top for taste, freshness, and authenticity.$11-$23.  edit
  • Maharani, 1122 Post St (between Van Ness Ave and Polk St), ☎ +1 415 775-1988 (, fax: +1 415 775-1640), [58]. Su-Th 5PM-9:45PM, F-Sa 5PM-10:15PM. Four star Indian restaurant with great food and a romantic rear hideout.$8-$22.  edit
  • Original Joe's, 144 Taylor St (between Turk and Eddy St), ☎ +1 415 775-4877 (, fax: +1 415 775-0435), [59]. 10:30AM-1:30AM daily. Joe's is a local institution, a Rat Pack dream of an Italian restaurant. The after-hours haunt of the theatrical and musical set in the 1950s and 1960s, Joe's fortunes fell with those of the surrounding neighborhood, and it's considerably frayed at the cuffs now. But the owner and staff maintain dignity through adversity — all the waiters wear tuxedos and are delightfully polite and thoughtful — and the tasty food in generous portions is probably the best meal you can find after midnight in SF, bar none. Reasonable prices, great service, oh-so-cool atmosphere — don't miss Joe's if you can.$10-$15 (''$4 well drinks'').  edit
  • Vietnam II, 701 Larkin St (between O'Farrell St and Ellis St), ☎ +1 415 885-1274. 9AM-11PM daily. At any number of eateries around the 'Loin, you can order pho, the Vietnamese beef and noodle soup that's correctly written with some curly bits over the "o," and correctly pronounced somewhere between "phuh" and "phah." It will always cost about five dollars; it will always come with your choice of meat (slices of rare beef, well-done brisket, tripe, tendon, and meatballs are the most common) simmering in a clear, pungent broth along with a tangle of thin rice noodles; it will always be accompanied by a heap of mung bean sprouts, leafy basil and mint stalks, lime wedges, and slices of chili pepper; and it will always be served in bowls ranging from merely large to mind-bogglingly enormous. But only at Vietnam II will you enjoy your pho while gazing upon an indoor koi pond, and browsing through a vast menu of other delicacies. Everything from deep fried quail to pig intestine porridge is available to the adventurous, along with Chinese standards like lo mein and fried rice.$4.95 (''pho'')-$16.95 (''fresh lobster'').  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Bistro Clovis, 1596 (at Franklin St and Page St), ☎ +1 415 864-0231 (fax: +1 415 864-0231), [60]. Lunch: Tu-F 11:30AM-2:30PM Dinner: Tu-Sa 5:30PM-10PM. Delivers a authentic feeling inside and outside with the historic streetcars clanking on Market St. Affordable, friendly service.Dinner: $18-$25.  edit
  • California Culinary Academy, 625 Polk St (at Turk St), ☎ +1 415 771-3500 (), [61]. Lunch Dinner: Tu 11:30AM-1PM, 6PM-8PM, W 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM, Th 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM, Fr 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM. Dining in the Careme room allows you to see what goes into your Cordon Bleu dinner. Requires reservations. The Grill serves simple dishes, prepared by the fresh[wo]men class.$31-$50.  edit
  • Canto do Brazil, 41 Franklin St (at Oak St), ☎ +1 415 626-8727, [62]. M-Sa 11AM-3PM, Su-Th 5PM-9PM, F-Sa 5PM-10PM. Traditional Brazilian food, very affordable, but mixed reviews on service.Dinner: $14-$21.  edit
  • First Crush Restaurant Wine Bar and Lounge, 101 Cyril Magnin St (at Ellis St), ☎ +1 415 982-7874 (, fax: +1 415 982-7800), [63]. Su-W 5PM-11PM, Th-Sa 5PM-midnight. If you like romantic restaurants and have also fallen in love with California — well this is the place for you. Popular with couples, this restaurant serves up modern Californian and American cuisine and they've a HUGE selection of Cal wines to wash it down with.$20-$30.  edit
  • Fleur De Lys, 777 Sutter St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☎ +1 415 673-7779 (fax: +1 415 673-4619), [64]. M-Th 6PM-9:30PM, F-Sa 5:30PM-10:30PM. This windowless Michelin Star restaurant is one of the finest formal French restaurants in the US and it frequently wins awards. The service is excellent and the food exceptional. They have a "prix-fixe" menu and over 700 wines to choose from.$72-$170.  edit
  • Grand Cafe Brasserie and Bar, 501 Geary St (at Taylor St), ☎ +1 415 292-0101 (, fax: +1 415 292-0150), [65]. Breakfast: M-F 7AM-10:30AM, Brunch: Sa 8AM-2:30PM, Su 9AM-2:30PM, Lunch: M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM, Dinner: Su-Th 5:30PM-10PM, F-Sa 5:30PM-11PM. With 30-foot high ceilings supported by pillars, sunken tables, sculptures, and artwork adorning the walls, it's not hard to see that this place was once an elegant ballroom. Today it's an elegant dining room where they serve excellent French cuisine.$30-$100.  edit
  • La Jardiniere, 300 Grove St (at Grove St and Franklin St), ☎ +1 415 861-5555 (, fax: +1 415 861-5580), [66]. Dinner: Su-W 5PM-10:30PM, Th-Sa 5PM-11:30PM, hours are extended to accommodate neighborhood performances. French food in American style, quite pricey, great decor, appetizers, deserts, mixed reviews on entrees. They have both an "a la carte" and a "prix-fixe" menu.$50-$150.  edit

  • Market Street Grill,