Leeds
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Leeds [1], the largest city in the historic county of Yorkshire, in West Yorkshire is famed for its excellent shopping, vibrant nightlife, thriving universities and sports. But in addition to these, Leeds is an extremely attractive city with wonderful Georgian, Victorian, 20th and 21st century architecture. There are also plenty of fantastic museums, cafés, restaurants and theatres to visit, not to mention easy access to the beautiful Yorkshire Dales and Yorkshire Moors.
[edit] Understand
Leeds (derived from the Celtic area Leodis) was voted UK's favourite city in Condé Nast's Readers' Traveller Awards 2003, and in 2008 was no longer on the list. It was a market town that became an industrial powerhouse and grew and developed into a service-based city economy with an attractive, smart centre.
Roman Leeds was an important strategic fort, ford and small settlement on the York-Chester road. Recorded in the Domesday book of 1086, Leeds became a thriving market town in the middle ages, gaining its town charter from the King in 1207. The medieval city was based around Briggate, Kirkgate, Swinegate and The Calls. (The ending -gate came from the old Norse for 'street'.) It was a trading centre in the West Riding of Yorkshire for cloth and wool; from Bradford, Halifax and Huddersfield to the port of Hull, east along the river Aire and the 1699 Aire & Calder Navigation canal. Whilst the town grew rapidly (population over 30,000 in the eighteenth century, when the gracious Georgian West End was built), it was for a long time economically overshadowed by nearby York.
The industrial revolution brought about massive change as it became a huge manufacturing centre of wool and textiles and a major trading centre (with over half the country's export passing through for a period). Leeds became known as the city of a thousand trades and by the middle of the nineteenth century the population had passed 200,000. Bolstered by the 1816 Leeds-Liverpool Canal and the Leeds-Selby railway in 1835 (The Middleton Railway was the world's first commercial railway, 1758 Railway Act, from The Middleton colliery to coal-staithes (sidings) at Meadow Lane just south of Leeds Bridge), the city continued to grow and prosper rapidly, with grandiose architectural manifestations of the Victorian city's wealth built in abundance, and expanding affluent suburbs to the north. Leeds University was created around the 1880s, bringing an intellectual dimension, and Leeds was served by one of the world's most extensive tram systems (sadly later replaced by buses). Leeds Bridge was the location of the world's first moving images, filmed in 1888 by Frenchman Louis le Prince (who later disappeared in mysterious circumstances), and Leeds was the first city in the world to have a modern traffic light system, the first of which were situated at the junction of Park Row and Bond Street. Leeds was granted city status in 1893.
By the twentieth century, Leeds's population was approaching 500,000. Whilst Leeds suffered far less than many other large UK cities from the WWII blitz, it was affected by the mass industrial decline of the country in the post-war period, and became characterised by unemployment and huge council estates. Versatility enabled it to survive and it began to prosper in the 1980s, when renovation of the centre and waterfront, and demolition of some of the worst estates began. By the 1990s the city was reborn with wealth based on service industries and commerce, the financial and legal centres making it the most important city in the UK in these areas outside London. With the West Yorkshire Playhouse, Royal Armouries, restoration of the Victoria Quarter and Corn Exchange, the clean up of major historical buildings, the new Harvey Nichols store and new bars, shops and restaurants - all in the mid 90s, the city was truly on the move. The most recent Census (2001) shows Leeds with a population of just over 715,000.
Today, Leeds is still one of the most cosmopolitan, fast-growing, innovative and prosperous cities in the UK with developments springing up by the week and new bars, boutiques, clubs and restaurants seemingly more often, the two universities adding to the vibrancy, and international eateries and shops. Today it is one of the most multicultural cities in the country, with people of many different origins almost totally in harmony.
[edit] Districts
- Central Leeds
- Civic quarter - north of the railway station, focussed on Millennium Square. Many museums and galleries can be found in this area as well as two major educational institutions.
- Central shopping district - north and north east of the railway station
- Exchange quarter - east of the railway station, centred on the Corn Exchange. Home to many quirky independents, bars and cafes.
- Gay Village - east of the railway station around Lower Briggate
- Financial district - north west of the railway station. The attractive Georgian Park Square is at the centre
- Riverside - south of the railway station. The converted granaries are now home to shops and restaurants, while new developments bring upmarket shopping to Leeds. The Royal Armouries museum can be found at Clarence Dock.
- Holbeck - south of the railway station. Once the industrial heart of Leeds, this district has been regenerated into a creative industries quarter with trendy bars spilling into cosy public spaces.
- Headingley - the lively student and sports district
- Chapel Allerton - trendy north Leeds area bursting with al fresco bars and restaurants
- Roundhay - attractive, leafy and well-heeled district of north Leeds, home to the vast and beautiful Roundhay Park, Tropical World, and a small selection of exclusive shops and eateries supplemented by those in nearby Oakwood.
There are various places of interest, shops, restaurants, historic sites, etc outside of the city centre and the above districts. These are listed geographically in the following guides: North East Leeds, North West Leeds, West Leeds, South Leeds and East Leeds.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
- Leeds-Bradford International Airport [2]. Leeds is very accessible by air. 10 miles north-west of the city centre. Budget airline Jet2 [3] offer a wide range of flights to and from Leeds, its main base. It is possible to fly direct from London (Heathrow) and Amsterdam amongst a wide range of other destinations. Direct flights to and from New York are being test-marketed this winter (2008) by Jet2. There is a regular bus service (the 757) into the city (journey time 40 minutes) and cabs are plentiful.
- Manchester Airport [4]. If you are coming from other continents then this is the nearest intercontinental airport. Come to Leeds by rail (24 hours a day service – hourly, at night every 2-3hr, journey time 1½ hrs).
[edit] By train
The busy, modern railway station [5] (occasionally called Leeds City Station), one of the biggest in the country with regular trains to a huge range of destinations all over the UK, is in the heart of the centre just off City Square.
- National Express [6] - serve London (Kings Cross) (2-2.5hr).
- First TransPennine Express [7] - serve Dewsbury, Huddersfield (30min), Stalybridge, Manchester (1hr), Manchester Airport (see above), Liverpool, York (20-30min), Scarborough (90min) and Newcastle (90min).
- Northern Rail [8] - serve Bradford, the scenic Settle-Carlisle route and intermediate stations to Manchester.
[edit] By car
Leeds is possible the best connected UK city by road, lying in the centre of the country, halfway between London and Edinburgh and halfway between Liverpool (west coast) and Hull (east coast). The M1 motorway runs from London via Milton Keynes, Leicester, Nottingham and Sheffield, and passes about 2 miles east of Leeds, to join the A1(M) at Wetherby. The M62 trans-Pennine motorway, which runs from the outskirts of Liverpool to a few miles from Hull, passes about 3 miles to the south of Leeds. The M621 motorway loop just to the south of the city centre, and connects with the M1 and M62. The Scott Hall Road scheme features a park and ride site to the north of Leeds, opened in the 1990s and caters for 157 cars. For much of the journey into Leeds, buses run on a guided busway beside (or down the middle of) the main road, and are given priority over cars. (See National Park and Ride Directory [9]. WhizzGo, a national car 'club' (i.e. car hire organisation which charges a £50 annual membership fee) has a branch in Leeds, and offers pay-by-the-hour car hire across the city. Cars are accessible via a smart card and PIN. [10]
[edit] By coach
- Megabus [11] - to/from London.
- National Express [12] - to/from London and other cities and towns.
- Yorkshire Coastliner (bus) [13] - to/from York and the beautiful Yorkshire coast.
[edit] By boat
The ferry can be caught from mainland Europe; Zeebrugge, Belgium or Rotterdam, Holland to Kingston Upon Hull, which is approximately an hour from Leeds by car/train.
[edit] Get around
[edit] On foot
If you're just visiting the city centre, you might as well walk, as much of it is surprisingly compact. To orientate yourself, free maps [14] (quite simple but good for basic orientation) are available at the tourist information and a number of visitor attractions. There are some street maps dotted around the city center, in guide books, street atlases, etc. Getting around Leeds is fairly easy. However, Leeds' central area is fairly compact with most of the major attractions and shops within walking distance of one another.
Leeds walking directions can be planned online with the walkit.com walking route planner [15].
[edit] By bus
Metro [16] (West Yorkshire Passenger Transport Authority) provides bus and train information on its website, and offers the innovative My Next Bus service of real-time bus information by text message or online. This real-time information is also displayed in certain bus shelters. First [17] runs most of the bus services within Leeds, and if travelling by bus, the best option is to buy a, "day rider," for £3.70/£2.70 (M-F before 9:30AM/other times), which allows unlimited on First Bus within West Yorkshire all day. Public transport isn't bad - most major bus routes within the city are every 10min or so. Useful bus routes for visitors include:
- FreeCityBus [18] - loops around much of the city center every 6-7 minutes during the day.
- 1 - Holt Park (North West Leeds) - Headingley - Universities - City centre - Beeston (south Leeds
- 2 - Roundhay Park - Moortown - Chapel Allerton - City Centre - Middleton (south Leeds)
- 3/3A - White Rose Shopping Centre (South Leeds) - City Centre - Chapel Allerton - Gledhow
- 4 ftr [19] - Whinmoor - Seacroft Shopping Centre - St James's University Hospital - City Centre - West Leeds - Pudsey (Watch out for ultra-modern purple and mauve bendy-buses.)
- 12 & 13/13A - Middleton (south Leeds - City Centre - Harehills - Oakwood - Roundhay Park (12)/Gledhow (13/13A)
- 16/16A - Seacroft Shopping Centre - City Centre - Armley - Bramley - Rodley - Pudsey Bus Station
- 18/18A - Ireland Wood (north west Leeds) - Headingley (cricket ground) - City Centre - East Leeds - Selby Road - Garforth
- 28 - Adel - Headingley - Universities - City Centre - Clarence Dock
- 33/33A - City Centre - Kirkstall - Horsforth - Rawdon - Yeadon - Guiseley - Otley
- 37/37A - City Centre - East Leeds
- 40 Seacroft Shopping Centre - Cross Gates - City Centre
- 42 - Old Farnley - Wortley - City Centre - Burmantofts - St James's University Hospital - Fearnville
- 49 & 50/50A - East Leeds - St James' University Hopital - City Centre - Burley Road - Bramley (49) - Horsforth (50/50A)
- 51/51A Morley (south of Leeds) - City Centre - Meanwood - Moor Allerton Shopping Centre
- 56 - Whinmoor - East Leeds - City Centre - Tinshill (north west Leeds)
- 71 - City Centre - Scott Hall Road - Park & Ride - Alwoodley (Primley Park)
- 72 Leeds Bus Station - Leeds Headrow - Armley - Bramley - Stanningley - Thornbury - Bradford
- 73 Leeds Bus Station - Leeds Train Station - Armley - Bramley - Stanningley - Pudsey
- 95 & 96 - City Centre - Universities - Headingley - Otley Road - Lawnswood - Bodington Hall (95) or Cookridge (96)
- 97 - City Centre - Headingley - West Park - Horsforth - Rawdon - Yeadon - Guiseley
- 757 - City Centre - Kirkstall - Horsforth - Rawdon - Airport (- Otley)
[edit] By taxi
Taxis can be expensive, but the black and white ones are licensed and safer than private hire cabs. The black and white taxis can be flagged down but others can't, you ought to phone first.
There is a very cheap taxi company called Amber (advanced booking only, tel: 0113.2311366) - you can get around the city centre for about 3-7GBP.
[edit] By rail
There is a limited suburban train service which serves some tourist destinations such as Headingley Stadium, but plans are underway for a radical overhaul of the city's transport system since the proposed tram system had its funding withdrawn by the government.
[edit] By boat
There is a shuttle boat between Granary Wharf (for Leeds City Station), Brewery Wharf and Clarence Dock (for the Royal Armouries Museum) operated by Leeds City Cruisers.
[edit][add listing] See
[edit] City centre
Although not considered a 'traditional' tourist destination, Leeds has plenty to occupy the visitor for a short break or a longer stay. As well as the main sights, museums, galleries, shops, parks etc, wandering around the buzzing city centre to take in the atmosphere and admire the fantastic blend of architectural styles from the past few hundred years is a pleasure in itself. Within the city centre the main districts are the civic quarter, central shopping district, exchange quarter and financial district.
- Millennium Square. There is generally something going on! A great public space home to some gorgeous civic architecture, concerts, exhibitions, ice rinks, Christmas markets... edit
- St Anne's Cathedral, Cookridge Street, [20]. Small, but an extremely interesting example of an Arts and Crafts, 19th Century Catholic Cathedral - unique within the UK. edit
- St John's Church, New Briggate. Hidden away within peaceful gardens lies this true gem, built just before the English Civil War, it has beautiful ornate woodwork in its charming interior, and architecturally it is an extremely rare example of a 17th century double nave design. edit
- Town Hall, The Headrow, [21]. The city's symbol and pride and joy, one of the world's finest Victorian buildings, and home to a dazzling array of concerts, particularly during the city's popular and extensive International Concert Season [22]. The recently restored interior is stunning. edit
- Leeds Art Gallery and The Henry Moore Institute, The Headrow. The world of modern and classical art is at your disposal here in Leeds. It has a small but interesting range of exhibits, and is a great place to kill half an hour, and it's free! edit
- Oxford Place Chapel, Oxford Place. Lovely 19th Century, red-brick baroque church. edit
- Victoria Quarter including County Arcade, Briggate, [23]. When the Victorian civic authorities sought to improve the sights and foul smells of Briggate and the city centre, they decided to demolish some of the city's dirtiest yards, alleyways, shambles and lanes and in there place build covered shopping arcades filled with fine establishments. These were to cater for the refined tastes of the growing moneyed classes of Leeds. This rebuilding continued into Edwardian times and the legacy of which are some of Europe's finest, most elegant shopping locations. Even today these arcades are home to some of the most exclusive designer shops that Great Britain can offer (Vivienne Westwood, Hugo Boss, Luis Vuitton and Harvey Nichols to name but a few). edit
- Kirkgate Market, Vicar Lane, [24]. This traditional British market is largest in Europe. Housed in an opulent late Victorian palace to commerce, it has both indoor and outdoor stalls. Marks and Spencer had their first establishment here, originally called, 'Marks Penny Bazaar'. edit
- Corn Exchange, Call Lane, [25]. Shopping in surroundings to rival any of Leeds' fine arcades. Located just to the south of Kirkgate markets on Vicar Lane. Designed by Cuthbert Broderick and architecturally based on the Paris corn exchange. A largely elliptical building, crowned with a great glass dome roof, that allows light to stream in even on the greyest Yorkshire winter mornings. (Broderick was also architect of Leeds town hall and the Leeds Mechanics' Institute, Millennium Square, Two shops designed by Broderick still survive opposite the Mechanics Institute on Cookridge Street, now converted into a cocktail bar.) edit
- Parish Church, Kirkgate, [26]. An attractive and fairly large neo-gothic church with a renowned choir and concerts from time to time. During the rebuilding of the Parish church in Victorian times, the original Saxon crosses where Leeds folk would have worshipped in the 8/9th centuries (well before the first church of Leeds had been founded) were unearthed in the medieval tower and is permanently on display inside. edit
- Holy Trinity Church, Boar Lane. An unassuming location and exterior hide an elegant baroque interior, built for the merchant class by subscription and donation so they could worship well away from the lower working classes of the city. The Iconic spire of Holy Trinity has dominated the skyline of the city for hundreds of years; and after undergoing restoration in 2006/7 will continue to do so. edit
- Park Square. A lovely Georgian square reminiscent of Dublin, and is often an overlooked haven of tranquility in the city centre. edit
- Clarence Dock, river area, [27]. This interesting development of cafés, restaurants, shops and apartments will be completed during 2008. Home to Royal Armouries Museum. N.B. cafés/restaurants/shops currently not open. edit
- The Royal Armouries Museum, Armouries Drive, river area (Clarence Dock), [28]. National museum of all things deadly, from swords and guns to armoury and pikes, now famous for its regular live jousting. Contains rare armour belonging to King Henry VIII and a diverse arsenal from the Royal collection, sourced from a-far a field as China, India and America. Features rare experimental pistols, and weaponry from many of the world's conflicts. edit
- Salem Chapel, Bridge End. Interesting and unique Unitarian chapel. Also the place where Leeds United football club was founded, replacing the old bankrupt Leeds City football club. edit
- Leeds Christmas Illuminations (Leeds Lights), [29]. The UK's biggest display, are an annual display from Nov-Jan comprising both big show lights and the subtle and beautiful across the city, and are even longer than the legendary Blackpool Illuminations. edit
[edit] Civic Quarter
Home to the Town Hall, the fantastic Art Gallery, Henry Moore Institute and Millennium Square, this grand corner of the city is where many of the main tourist draws are to be found. The Light with its shops, restaurants, bars, hotel, cinema etc in a beautifully converted historic building is of course a major pull; but venture along the Headrow and experience some of the best cultural attractions on offer in the city. The Art Gallery has great rotating exhibitions and the best collection of 20th century British Art outside London. Adjoining it are the Henry Moore Institute and the Central Lending Library with its beautiful Victorian interior. Both the library and art gallery are going to be comprehensively renovated and restored in the next few months. Across the road is the Town Hall (see above), a breathtaking demonstration of civic pride.
On Great George St is a small selection of shops, the 19th century entrance (with a lovely colonial-style entrance hallway and small gallery space up the stairs) of the Leeds General Infirmary, and the recently restored Electric Press which is now home to the Carriageworks Theatre and several bars and restaurants, providing a semi-al fresco eating environment for all weather conditions. Next door is the impressive and well-used public space of Millennium Square (see above) with its attractive Mandela Gardens (opened by Mandela himself, now a freeman of the city, they are a lovely spot especially in summer) abutting the Electric Press building. The square is crowned with the Portland Stone neo-classical Civic Hall and the new City Museum (due to open 2008). Down on Cookridge St is the city's small but unique Arts and Crafts St Anne's Cathedral.
[edit] Central Shopping District
The very centre of Leeds is a temple to consumerism. Bounded by the 'Public Transport Box', a rough half mile square between The Headrow, Vicar Lane, Boar Lane and Park Row gives Leeds one of the most compact, busy and diverse pedestrian shopping districts in the UK where the highest concentration of the city centre's stores are to be found.
The principle shopping street is the broad and bustling Briggate (recently attractively repaved), where many flagship stores such as Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Debenhams are to be found alongside high-end fashion (eg Louis Vuitton) and high street favourites (Topshop, Zara, H&M) etc. Briggate's attractive and eclectic architecture spans three centuries, and the grand shop fronts only add to the streets appeal.
Either side of the top end of Briggate are the city's famous arcades, splendidly palatial Victorian roofed-over shopping streets home to some of the city's most exclusive and interesting shops. The famous Victoria Quarter (Victoria St, County Arcade and Cross Arcade) have some of the most expensive clothes in leeds. Queen's and Thornton's arcades are a little more affordable with more independent stores. Down from the arcades, several medieval yards (or "loins") run off almost hidden from between shopfronts on Briggate. Whilst some are little more than shop-backs and some are now closed off, some exude genuine historic atmosphere and a few are home to attractive pubs and bars, including The Angel Inn, The Ship, The Bay Horse, Queen's Court and three-hundred-year-old Whitelocks'.
Beyond Briggate, there are several other prominent shopping streets, including gorgeously symmetrical King Edward Street with its matching Victorian Burmantoft terracotta buildings. Commercial Street, Kirkgate, Lands Lane and Albion St are other principal streets in the area, continuing the mix of shops, cafés, lovely architecture. There are also several indoor shopping centres, and a central focal point is tiny but busy Central Square at the base of Lands Lane. Albion Place is a quieter street of elegant Georgian buildings (mainly offices) including the exclusive Leeds Club and the city's central private members library, running between the square and Albion St. Swan Street is a quiet and pretty little street between Briggate and Lands Lane with a few attractive little shops, cafés and bars and a laid-back vibe, as well as the internationally famous City Varieties theatre and music-hall, once home to Charlie Chaplin.
[edit] Exchange Quarter
Centred on the massive dome of the Corn Exchange, the Exchange Quarter is the centre of Leeds' bohemian life, with one-off boutiques, funky cafés and piercing parlours filling its pretty cobbled streets. It is becoming increasingly chic, however, with a plethora of upscale bars and stylish restaurants, particularly on Call Lane.
The Corn Exchange dominates the area, sitting squattly at the junction of several major roads. This grand Victorian building is one of the finest in the city, and was a functioning corn market for several decades, but was almost unused for much of the twentieth century, until its restoration to its present form in the 1980s. It now houses a myriad of little boutiques, a few cafés and market stalls. The goth and emo teenagers that hang around outside frequent many of the shops such as Grin and Exit, but there are also a range of fashion and artisan stores to please all, and the beautiful architecture (the shops fit into the retained 19th-century store-fronts, and the domed roof is spectacular from the interior) can be enjoyed by everyone.
Three sides of the Corn Exchange are bounded by semi-pedestrian cobbled streets lined by a hotch potch of attractive victorian buildings home to shops and restaurants from Blue Rinse (see below) to Pizza Express, housed in the beautiful Third White Cloth Hall, sadly sliced in half by the railway in the mid-nineteenth century, but retaining its lovely facade and clock-tower. Along the railway, the continental feel continues with bars and cafés that spill on to the pavement. Beautiful Assembly Street, a hub of nightlife, is lined with elegant and imposing eighteenth-century warehouses and has been recently repaved, and in the summer is a relaxing place to sip a coffee or cocktail and admire the buildings and atmosphere. Nearby Crown Street buildings are a fine example of modern architecture at its finest, sympathetic to the surrounding environment but adding a dash of vibrancy with bright use of colour above its restaurants and bars.
Call Lane, the area's main drag, is a hive of activity in the evenings, with several of the city's best and most stylish bars, all vying for attention. In the day-time however it is much quieter, with a few vintage and alternative clothes stores at the Kirkgate end, and musical instrument shops located at the Calls end. There is plenty of enjoyment to be had from wondering around the pretty and historic medieval yards that run between Call Lane and Lower Briggate (at night these too come alive and are full of revelers).
Kirkgate is currently a fairly downmarket shopping street with a few off-beat stores. However plans are afoot to refurbish the historic town-houses and bring life back into the street as a centre for independent shops, with the renovation of the dilapidated First White Cloth Hall along similar (if smaller) lines to the Corn Exchange. The east end of Kirkgate and New York Street also increasingly have a number of bars and clubs, including the celebrated Northern Light; there are also several new apartment buildings springing up. The end of Kirkgate is market by Leeds Parish Church, a grand (if not enormous) neo-gothic structure home to one of the country's most revered children's choirs. To the west, Central Road links Kirkgate to Duncan Street, and is home to some attractive Flemish-style buildings, a few off-beat shops and the acclaimed Little Tokyo restaurant and Leeds institution the HiFi Club. Duncan Street has a number of small shops.
The Calls was where riverside life restarted in Leeds, with its renovation from a derelict nowhere to the city's most desirable real estate in the 1980s. The apartments lining the waterfront may not be as exclusive or as rare today, but it is still an attractive and expensive area, home to some of Leeds' longest running high-end establishments including 42 The Calls hotel, Pool Court and the Calls Grill. Some of the waterfront and streets around here are surprisingly yet to be fully renovated, but it's unlikely to be long before developers get their claws into the remaining warehouses, railway arches and mill-cottages. Leeds Civic Trust's heritage centre and left-wing arts centre The Common Place fill the gap between the Calls and the railway line.
[edit] Financial District
Whilst the Financial District doesn't have the obvious draws of the Civic Quarter, it is nonetheless an interesting area that deserves at least a little of your time. Roughly bounded by the Headrow and Westgate to the North, the A58 motorway to the West, the River Aire to the South and Park Row to the East, this is the most expensive business real estate in the city. Many large companies have their offices here as well as innumerable lawyers, estate agents, etc.
Park Square is probably the number one attraction of the area. Situated just south-west of the Town Hall, this large and handsome Georgian Square has lovely formal gardens that fill up with workers at lunchtime in the warmer months. Whilst most of the square is bounded by rows of 18th century redbrick townhouses that made the square one of the city's most fashionable addresses 200 years ago, the South West corner is home to a little-known architectural highlight of Leeds, a converted warehouse (now offices) built in the 19th century as a replication of a Moorish Palace, complete with turrets and Islamic-style ornate design. The streets to the south of Park Square are a mixture of Georgian townhouses and more modern office buildings sitting cheek-by-jowl. Whilst not hugely diverting, there are several interesting buildings in this area. Wellington Street, a busy thoroughfare which marks the bottom of the Georgian area, has several restaurants and bars as well as being characterised by more modern business development. The area between Wellington Street and the river is being comprehensively redeveloped as an ultra-modern business district ('Wellington Place'), which is planned to include cultural attractions and the UK's first city beach on the banks of the Aire; currently new glass and steel towers rising seemingly every few weeks. Work is due to start on La Lumiere, the tallest building to be built in the city on Wellington Street. This massive skyscraper will be the tallest residential building in Europe upon completion.
Between East Parade and Park Row, two busy main routes through the area, are a series of parallel streets that are home to some of the city's top restaurants and bars, most famously Greek Street. There is a rich patchwork of architecture spanning the past two centuries in this small area, with fine Gothic buildings and sleek modern towers. Park Row itself boasts outstanding buildings such as the Leeds Permanent building, blending seamlessly into modern glass building-fronts.
The south-east corner of the Financial District is City Square, one of the most important hubs of city life. Recently cleaned up and repaved, the square is still home to bronze nymphs holding gas lights and the famous statue of the Black Prince. The old post office is now the swanky Restaurant Bar & Grill and Loch Fyne seafood restaurant. A rarely beautiful 1990s office block sits at No1 City Square, and the south side is taken up by the Art Deco facade of grand old dame of the Leeds Railway hotel trade, The Queens Hotel (L.N.E.R.).
[edit] Other attractions
- Thackray Medical Museum, Beckett Street (next door to St James' Hospital), [30]. Award winning. The best of its kind in the country, with all manner of exhibits and the chance to experience the life of a Victorian child or mill-worker (and their often gruesome medical history). If you've got children, you'd be mad to miss it! edit
- Tropical World, Princes Avenue, Roundhay, [31]. Great for a rainy day as it's all indoors, this extensive menagerie has animals, birds, fish and insects from across the globe in thoughtfully themed zones. edit
- Temple Newsam, Temple Newsam Road (off Selby Road), [32]. One of the great historic estates in England. With over 1500 acres landscaped by Capability Brown in the 18th century, it is a large Tudor–Jacobean mansion housing a large collection of works of art. The garden has some excellent walks and houses a working Rare Breeds farm. edit
- Harewood House, Harewood Village, [33]. This huge estate, complete with extensive gardens, lake, lovely café and bird gardens, is owned by the Queen's cousin. The opulent roccoco house itself is well worth a look around. edit
- Kirkstall Abbey, Abbey Road, Kirkstall,, [34]. Largest abbey in the North of England - see below. One of the UK's biggest and best preserved abbeys, recently restored with a new visitor centre. It's 3 miles out of town but lovers of history and architecture, or those in search of a beautiful and peaceful spot in the city won't regret making the trip. Buses (33/33a) every 10 minutes from the city centre. Opposite is Abbey House Museum [35]. edit
- Armley Mills, Canal Road, Armley,, [36]. Excellent museum of industry and Leeds' (major) role in the Industrial Revolution. edit
- Thwaite Mills, Thwaite Lane, Stourton, [37]. Rare example of a former stone-crushing mill, now an excellent working museum. edit
- Middleton Railway, Moor Road, Hunslet, [38]. The oldest working railway in the world. Situated in South Leeds between Middleton and Hunslet, it used to carry coal from the coal mines to the south of the city to the factories of Hunslet and central Leeds. You can now have a ride on the historic rolling stock. edit
- Church of St John the Baptist, Church Lane, Adel, [39]. Whilst a long way out of town, this leafy and extremely affluent suburb has some lovely houses, and is a world a way from the bustle of the city centre - nearby York Gate garden is beautiful and well worth a visit), this lovely and well-preserved early Norman church set in verdant grounds is a hidden treasure edit
- Bramham Park, Wetherby, [40]. Another such stately home to the north-east of Leeds with a long history and lovely gardens and grounds. edit
[edit] Future attractions
N.B. under construction or planned for the future:
- Holbeck Urban Village, [41]. The complete renovation and restoration of an entire city district. In the south-west of central Leeds, this historic area was key to the Industrial Revolution, and has many buildings and sites of interest, including the stunning Egyptian-style Temple Mill and Italianate Tower Works. The restoration and redevelopment has already begun with the Round Foundry, a new-age village of offices, flats, cafés and media centres complete with traditional paved streets and 200-year old buildings. A plethora of other developments promise that this area will become more and more of an exciting new destination. edit
- Leeds City Museum, Millennium Square. Opens 2008. edit
- Lumiere, Wellington Street, [42]. Construction halted in July 2008.. Planned to be the tallest residential building in Europe, Lumiere also included a winter garden, numerous shops and restaurants. It was to be a dramatic new addition to the city's skyline (and at 52 stories the tallest UK building outside London). If construction starts again at a later date, it will no doubt grab the attention of visitors and residents alike. edit
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit] Cinema
Leeds holds two annual film festivals: the increasingly prestigious Leeds International Film Festival [43] with its huge menu of different films and Leeds Young People's Film Festival [44]. Cinemas in surrounding areas include Odeon Leeds Bradford (Thornbury: 7 miles) [45]; Showcase (Birstall: 6 miles) [46]; Vue, Kirkstall (2 miles) [47] and Xscape Castleford (10 miles) [48].
- Vue, The Light Shopping Center, The Headrow, city center, [49]. Modern, well located 13-screen multiplex with huge screens. edit
- Hyde Park Picture House, [50]. Another excellent independent cinema in the midst of the hot-bed of student habitation in the town. The cinema shows a mix of modern mainstream and art-cinema films as well as a formidable selection of classics. Lucky cinephiles may even experience the latter in conjunction with an introductory speech prepared for local film students. It retains many of its original features including gas lighting. edit
- Cottage Road Cinema, Headingley, [51]. Atmospheric old cinema near the centre of Headingley. Plenty to do afterwards as well. edit
[edit] Theatre & comedy
- The Carriageworks, Millennium Square, [52]. Home to the city's impressive range of amateur dramatic and musical groups, including the acclaimed Leeds Youth Opera [53] edit
- City Varieties Music Hall, [55]. World famous and has even had Charlie Chaplin tread the boards. Home to a mix of shows. edit
- Grand Theatre, [56]. Major shows (often straight from the West End); also this is the home of the world famous (and extraordinarily good) Opera North who perform a wide repertoire of operas and operettas. edit
- Seven, Harrogate Road, Chapel Allerton, [57]. A new theatre and arts centre due to open soon on Harrogate Road in Chapel Allerton edit
- West Yorkshire Playhouse, [58]. More adventurous and often performs world premiers and encourages local talent - well worth a visit. Lucky travellers may arrive in time for one of the themed, almost festival-style programmes. edit
[edit] Live music
The city's music scene is burgeoning at the moment, and Leeds is a great place to see up-and-coming talent, with recently successful bands such as Corinne Bailey Rae, Kaiser Chiefs and Sunshine Underground. Leeds is home to many live performances from big-name stars, mostly at outdoor concerts. Millennium Square in the city centre regularly has gigs with a 7,000 capacity. Leeds is planning to build an indoor concert arena of around (or possibly over) 14,000 seats. See also: Clubs, for example The Cockpit and HiFi.
- Leeds Festival, [60]. Northern twin of the famous Reading festival. 3 days of live bands and stars from around the world play to 80,000 people every summer bank holiday weekend. You can camp over, or attend just one day. edit
- Leeds Irish Centre, York Road, East Leeds. Regular concerts from a variety of different types of musical acts. edit
- Roundhay Park. edit
- Temple Newsam. Every year, Temple Newsam plays host to the UK's original Party in the Park pop extravaganza featuring big name chart stars of the minute. Opera in the Park is a massively popular outdoor festival of opera and songs from the shows, also at Temple Newsam. edit
- Leeds University Refectory. Hosts a huge number of concerts from medium-large bands across the year. It is famously where the Who recorded their seminal live album Live at Leeds. edit
- The Wardrobe, Quarry Hill. Famed for its diverse range of quality live music, including a strong jazz offer. edit
[edit] Sport
There are plenty of leisure centres, gyms and swimming pools across the city, though unfortunately no public ones will remain in the city centre after the International Pool closes. Major city centre fitness/leisure centres are deluxe Esporta, LA fitness and the ubiquitous Virgin Active. Some hotels have great leisure facilities or agreements with local centres for free access for guests.
- John Charles Centre for Sport, South Leeds, [62]. International standard facilities for all four jumping disciplines: triple jump, long jump, high jump and pole vault. As well as an area for javelin throwing, an indoor throwing cage is available for discus and hammer. The centre also has its own specific weights area, designed specifically for use by athletes, dedicated to high performance and strength training. An eight lane all weather outdoor athletics track conforms to full International Association of Athletics Federations specifications. Six indoor tennis courts and six outdoor floodlit courts provide the ideal tennis environment either for the complete beginner or the established player. Leeds has a brand new (2007) 50 metre pool and diving centre. edit
- Cricket (Yorkshire County Cricket Club), Headingley, [63]. April-September. Also a Test Match venue. edit
- Leeds United Football Club, [64]. August-May. Currently in League One (the third tier of English League football), but traditionally one of the larger English clubs. edit
- Rugby League (Leeds Rhinos), Headingley, [65]. Best supported Rugby club in the UK (League or Union). World Champions 2004, Superleague Champions 2007. edit
- Rugby Union (Leeds Tykes), [68]. September-May. Currently in the Guinness Premiership (the top tier of English Rugby Union) - Powergen Cup Winner 2004. edit
- Xscape Castleford, Colorado Way, Castleford, [69]. Real snow indoor ski slopes (with designer outlet, cinema and nightlife). Indoor real snow skiing, Ice climbing wall, cinema and restaurants! edit
[edit] Parks
Whilst hardly tropical, Leeds has an unusually mild and sunny climate for northern England, protected from the worst and wettest weather by the Pennine Hills to the west ... this gives more than ample opportunity to explore the fantastic parks of one of Europe's greenest cities (Leeds has the most green space in its city limits of any European city other than Vienna).
- Roundhay Park, [70]. Huge picturesque park with 2 lakes, café, flower gardens and walks. Right next to Tropical World, and the lovely formal Canal Gardens, be sure to visit them all in one day. edit
- Hall Park, Horsforth. Some distance from central Leeds, has lovely Japanese Gardens and is accessible by bus. edit
- The Hollies Arboretum, North West Leeds, [72]. Large botanical garden set in lush woodlands with a wonderful selection of plants. edit
- Lotherton Hall, [73]. Deer park, extensive and interesting bird garden, historic hall and café. Museum. edit
- Temple Newsam, East Leeds, [76]. Country mansion, wonderful parkland and rare breeds visitor farm (excellent for kids) - all within the city boundary! edit
- Woodhouse Moor, Central/North Leeds. The closest big park to central Leeds, between Leeds University and Hyde Park Corner. In summer months it is packed to bursting with students and other young people sunbathing and playing sports. There are large fields, small formal gardens and a skate park. edit
[edit] Learn
Leeds is one of the UK and Europe's foremost university cities, with a student population of over 100,000 (10%+ of the population!) concentrated on several higher educational facilities including the two main universities. This gives the city a young feel and lively buzz, and many bars, clubs and restaurants are geared towards students particularly in Headingley and North West Leeds, although if this isn't your scene the city has plenty to offer away from student life.
- Leeds University [77] (30,000 students) - one of the most important and respected academic institutions in the UK, based around the city centre campus; also a major centre for research. One of the country's original 'redbrick' universities.
- Leeds Metropolitan University (Leeds Met) [78] (50,000 full and part-time students) - more modern and larger with two main campuses, at Headingley and in the Civic Quarter. Rapidly expanding and improving, with major redevelopment planned in the Civic Quarter.
[edit][add listing] Buy
|
Opening Times City center - M-W 9am-6pm Th-Sa 9am-7/8pm Su 11am-5pm. Other areas - 9am-5pm. |
City centre shops number well over 1,000, made up of modern shopping centres, the lovely arcades and busy streets - principally Briggate, a wide and attractive pedestrian street with all the high street favourites and much more (from time to time there are markets and other events, and there are usually street performances of some kind). Much of the central shopping area is pleasantly pedestrianised, making retail therapy even easier. Leeds has myriad options for shopping including the beautiful Victorian-era shopping arcades, offering anything from the reasonably priced to the expensive items. In November and December, Millennium Square is turned into a Christmas wonderland of stalls, eateries and fairground-rides for Christkindelmarkt - the city's German Christmas market. There are also several outdoor markets held across the city more regularly, including occasional French markets on Briggate. Plans are also afoot for a massive extension of the main shopping district. City Centre Shopping Centres include all:
- Victoria Quarter, Briggate, city center, [79]. Home of Harvey Nichols [80], North Face, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood [81] and much more, the upmarket (and architecturally stunning) jewel in the crown of Leeds' shopping district. edit
- Thornton's Arcade and Queen's Arcade, city center (opposite Victoria Quarter). Opposite the Victoria Quarter offer a range of interesting (if mainly fairly pricey) shops including some great boutiques and one-off places. edit
- Corn Exchange, city center, [82]. A stunning domed interior and a range of shops to please both label-lovers and teenagers, as well as stalls and cafés. There are occasional concerts, exhibitions, fetes and the Christmas decorations are lovely. edit
- Market, Kirkgate, city center, [83]. The biggest cover market/market on one site in Europe. Fascinating even just for the atmosphere of a traditional British market. Largest indoor market in Europe and also is a beautiful Victorian building and a landmark in Leeds it also has a outdoor market which sells everything from food to clothes to electronics and accessories. edit
- Granary Wharf, (literally under the railway station). By the canal, has a selection of interesting boutiques, restaurants, exhibition space, a small concert venue, street performers and more in a unique subterranean setting. There is also a regular market. The waterfront area is undergoing redevelopment but the range of shops on offer is set to only get bigger. edit
The districts of Chapel Allerton, Headingley and Roundhay also offer a smaller (but worthwhile) range of boutiques and other shops. Crossgates in East Leeds has a medium sized shopping centre and many highstreet shops and cafés, and Horsforth in the North West offers a range of shops and eateries.
[edit] Food
Of course, as with almost all of the UK today, supermarkets, M&S Simply Food and other chains dominate the food-shop market, but there are an increasing number of quality independent delicatessens, bakeries and other little food shops across the city. Many out-of-centre areas retain their local shops (though this cannot be said for everywhere) and the city centre has an impressive range on offer, including:
- Chinese. There are a number of Chinese food shops around Vicar Lane and the Templar Street Chinatown Arcade - including a well-stocked oriental supermarket on Vicar Lane itself. The best restaurants around are Tong Palace on Vicar Lane, and Lucky Dragon on Templar Place edit
- Harvey Nichols Foodmarket, Briggate, city center, [84]. Small, squashed between Fourth Floor Restaurant and Yo Sushi, but it has lots of expensive goodies for that extra special something. edit
- Out of this World, city centre. Excellent, well stocked, fair-trade organic mini-market offering all the food you could want, but tastier, healthier, more ethically responsible and, admittedly, more expensive. edit
- Pickle & Porter. Sandwich shop par excellence, this award winning little place just off Lands Lane gets mouths watering. The chocolate brownies are genuinely the best you will ever have. The roast beef sandwich is also highly recommended. edit
- Salvo's Salumeria, Headingley. Range of fine authentic Italian produce. edit
- Simpson's, Dock Street, city centre. Exclusive but excellent deli-cum-mini market. edit
- Safran, Kirkgate, city centre. Fantastic authentic Iranian cuisine. edit
The lively area of Harehills (bus no 12, 13, 49 or 50) in East Leeds has a bad reputation locally for crime and poverty, and whilst the visitor should be aware that it is maybe best not to flash expensive items or visit the area after dark, it is worth visiting for its fantastic range of food shops, cafés and restaurants from across the world. A true cultural melting pot, the area has everything from Jamaican grill-houses to Indian restaurants, Persian tea-shops to Eastern European supermarkets, and if you want to experience authentic international food or simply see another side of the city, it is an interesting place to go - and prices are far lower than in many other areas.
[edit] Books, CDs, DVDs
Leeds has all the major chains such as Borders, HMV, Waterstones, Virgin Megastore, WHSmith, etc and also a variety of smaller independent shops including Crash Records on The Headrow and Jumbo Records in the St. John's Centre, which hosts fairly regular instore performances (there's also lots of second hand places - including a massive, well-stocked Oxfam Books & Music in Headingley)
[edit][add listing] Eat
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink: | |
| Budget | Under £10 |
| Mid-range | £10-£20 |
| Splurge | Over £20 |
There are, of course, so many restaurants in central Leeds that everyone is guaranteed to find something to their taste and budget, from all the usual chains (many of which have several branches in the city) to the huge variety of one of places, including many award-winners, that one would expect of such a large and cosmopolitan city. Headingley, Chapel Allerton, Roundhay and various other districts outside the centre also have a range of quality eateries (whilst a few places in these areas are mentioned below, fuller selections can be found on their respective guides). It is now possible to have food delivered from a selection of top Leeds restaurants for a small fee [85], so you can eat restaurant food without having to go out. Café culture is thriving in Leeds, with a great number of places for a lunch or lighter meal, and there are also many fine curry houses in the city, due to the large South Asian population. Leeds recently launched (with much success) an annual Food and Drink festival, held at the end of August, with many free events bookable in advance. Finally, you can also check the hygiene standards assessed in the kitchens of any restaurant by checking this link: [86]
[edit] Restaurants
- Aagrah, Quarry Hill, city centre, [87]. Is an expanding Leeds-based chain of quality curry houses. edit
- Arti, 285 Roundhay Road, ☎ 0871 8115354, [88]. Simply stunning Indian restaurant with authentic and tasty food. Very popular with Asians and Indians; this can only be a good thing. Wonderful relaxed atmosphere; the rice is absolutely stupendous and must be tried - the owner also runs the post office next door! edit
- Arts Café, exchange quarter, [89]. One of the oldest establishments in the Exchange Quarter, with a friendly-relaxed vibe and food to die for at very reasonable prices (the desserts are especially delicious). edit
- Bibis, city centre, [90]. Wonderful Italian food served in a fantastic Art-Deco restaurant - packed with local regulars who know a good thing when they eat it! edit
- Casa Mia, Casa Mia Grande and Casa Mia Millennium, Casa Mia and Casa Mia Grande: Chapel Allerton, North Leeds; Casa Mia Grande: Millennium Square, city centre. Locally famous for their top-notch Italian fare. edit
- The Clock Café, Hyde Park. This wikitraveller has found it difficult to fault this restaurant despite several visits. Anything on the menu is delicious and the service and beers (no weak fizzy lager here!) are outstanding, ranging from traditional English to renowned Czech produce. The setup is basic with benches and tables but the atmosphere is pitched just right for small groups and couples - recommended. If there were popularity contests for bar staff, this place would win. edit
- The Flying Pizza, Roundhay, [92]. North Leeds institution. In the centre of Roundhay, this fantastic Italian restaurant has been going for well over 30 years. edit
- Georgetown, [93]. Behind the striking clockmakers' facade lies a subtropical palace to colonial opulence, decked out in impeccable but tasteful old world grandeur and serving delicious Malay cuisine: an experience for all the senses. edit
- Hansa's, North Street. Acclaimed vegetarian Indian restaurant with curries to die for. Service can be extremely slow. On two midweek visits, we had a one-hour wait for the main course. edit
- Little Tokyo, Exchange Quarter. Multi-award winning Japanese place. edit
- Livebait, The Calls, city centre. Excellent seafood restaurant with simple, traditional style and decor and emphasis on quality food. edit
- The Mill Race, Kirkstall, West Leeds (5min walk from Kirkstall Abbey). Hearty organic fare in a beautiful building, this place often needs reservations but the food is breathtaking. edit
- L'Oranaise, Hyde Park, [94]. This Algerian restaurant offers authentic atmosphere and eating - even a Sheesha pipe for after the meal. The food is amongst the best this Wikitraveller has tasted in Leeds. Teas and coffees can be taken upstairs amongst the low tables and scatter cushions. edit
- The Red Chilli, Electric Press/The Carriageworks, Great George Street, city centre. Highly recommended Chinese restaurant. The most SNOBISH Chinese restaurant in Leeds. edit
- Restaurant Bar & Grill, City Square, city centre, [95]. Simply named, this restaurant sits in a stunning location in the Old Post Office conversion, and exudes style and elegance, offering a range of fantastic quality meals and drinks. edit
- Salvos, Headingley, [96]. Italian restaurant and salumeria/café two doors down. Both fantastic simple food, great atmosphere. edit
- Simply Heathcotes. Exclusive but incredibly good waterfront restaurant. edit
- SiSushi, Great George Street, city centre and Harrogate Road, North Leeds, [97]. Great sushi restaurant and takeaway. edit
- Tampopo, financial quarter. Ever-popular swanky noodle restaurant. edit
- Truffles, Kippax, [98]. A 20-minute journey out of town to this award winning restaurant, twice voted best restaurant in Leeds. Book now, waiting list of about 4 months. Serves the finest Traditional English as well as imaginative dishes to die for! A welcoming warm atmosphere with lashings of luxury! edit
- Viva Cuba, Queen Square, city centre and Kirkstall Road, West Leeds. Excellent, acclaimed Cuban Tapas restaurant. edit
[edit] Budget
- Brio, Great George Street and The Light Shopping Center, both city center, [99]. Popular Italian restaurant with generous portions and great pizzas. edit
- Cuban Heels, exchange quarter. Beautiful, relaxed little restaurant-café-bar with buckets of charm, great food and a lovely, intimate location in railway arches on a cobbled site street. Inexpensive with midweek offers. edit
- Lucky Dragon, Chinatown Arcade, Templar Street, city center. Authentic Chinese restaurant. edit
[edit] Mid-range
- Akbars, Eastgate, city center. Award-winning Indian food served in cosmopolitan surroundings - and at reasonable prices too! Focus is on portion size rather than taste, however, and although the interior is gorgeous, it is often simply too full - one always feels rushed here. edit
- Maxi's, The Light Shopping Center, city center. Renowned Chinese restaurant. edit
- Room, (near railway station). Surprisingly affordable stylish restaurant deservedly popular with the city's rich and famous, serving modern takes on traditional British food. edit
[edit] Splurge
- Anthonys, city center, [100]. Michelin star rated. If you're willing to spend a little bit more for that extra-special meal then this is the place to go - but book ahead as this is the most popular restaurant in Leeds - highly recommended. There is also a popular branch in Flannels department store. edit
- Brasserie Blanc, [101]. New to the Leeds restaurant scene and owned by world famous chef Raymond Blanc. edit
- Fourth Floor at Harvey Nichols, Briggate, city center, [102]. Renowned Leeds branch restaurant has been going strong for years with an innovative menu tailored to the seasons. Despite the swanky location, it is surprisingly unpretentious and not ridiculously pricey. edit
- La Grillade, 27 Wellington St, [103]. French food with perhaps the best steaks in Leeds. Small menu that concentrates on meat, small wine list, the bottle we had was one of the best New Zealand sauvignons I have had, I would assume the rest are also well chosen. Fantastc cheese board, concentrating again on French, the Epoisse was very ripe. The staff were attentive without being fussy. The clientele it being a Wednesday appeared to be mainly business men. Not cheap but very tasty. edit
- Mio Modo, financial quarter. Plush Italian restaurant oozes style and whilst not cheap the excellent food easily makes it worth the prices. edit
- Sous Le Nez en Ville, financial quarter (near railway station). Fantastic dining experience below street level in this exclusive-but-well-worth-it restaurant. Does a very good value early