Thimphu

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Thimphu (ཐིམ་ཕུག།) is the capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan, and with a population of around 80,000 is the nation's largest city.

Thimphu Valley
Thimphu Valley

[edit] Understand

Although the Thimphu Valley has supported small settlements for many centuries and a dzong has existed there since 1216, the city didn't really develop until the king declared Thimphu the new capital in 1961. Vehicles first appeared on the streets a year later, and slowly the city began to adapt to its role as the nation's capital. Currently the town is undergoing massive development. New tree-lined streets are being laid and the clock tower area in the center of the city has been transformed into a park-cum-open air theater where live cultural performances take place. The area around the dzong and government buildings is a particularly green and attractive district.

Norzin Lam is the city's main thoroughfare and is lined with hotels, shopping complexes and hotels.

[edit] Climate

Climate Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Daily highs (°C) 12 14 16 20 23 24 19 25 23 19 14 11
Nightly lows (°C) -3 1 4 7 13 15 13 16 15 10 5 -1
Precipitation (cm) 1 1 2 2 2 5 8 7 3 2 1 1

The winter season in Thimphu is very cold but dry, while the summers are wet and humid. The the best times to visit are from mid September to the end of October and from March to May.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Nearly all visitors arrive via plane from Paro, the country's sole airport, a 45 minute to 1 hour drive from the capital.

[edit] By bus

All inter-district buses arrive and depart from the city's bus station, located across the river from the city center. It is a six to seven hour drive from the border town of Phuentsholing.

[edit] Get around

The city center is small enough to negotiate on foot.

  • Taxi: There is a set rate for taxis plying city routes. Maximum is around 50nu. There are taxi ranks on Norzin Lam (across from the cinema hall) and at the inter-district bus station. Taxis also cruise and can be hailed at any point.
  • Bus. The city operates an efficient, albeit infrequent, public bus service connecting the down town with outer suburbs. The station for local buses is located just east of the the stadium on Chang Lam.

[edit][add listing] See

Monasteries are referred to by their Dzongkha title of lhakhang or gompa.

  • The National Folk Heritage Museum, located behind the National Library. A traditional house that showcases rural life. Exhibits and cultural shows are held in the museum compound. Open: Mon-Fri 10:30AM to 4:30PM, Sa 10:30Am to 1PM and Su 11:30AM to 3:30PM. Entrance: 150nu.
  • Changangkha Lhakhang. Constructed in the 15th century, this is one of the oldest temples in the Thimphu Valley, and is dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, the Buddhist emanation of compassion. The temple affords wonderful views over the entire valley.
  • The National Memorial Stupa - located off Jangchhub Lam - a good place to visit in the evening when the locals are doing their evening prayers. The stupa was built in 1974 as a memorial to the third king.
  • The Textile Museum, Norzin Lam, has a display of exquisite Bhutanese textiles from the 1600s to the present day.
  • Trashi Chhoe Dzong. The present dzong was built in the 18th century by Shabdrung Rinpoche to house government officials. Later it was enlarged to accommodate both the monastic and civil bodies. Three times suffering severe damage from fire and once from an earthquake in 1897, much of the historic building dates from the rebuilding in 1902. To accommodate the national government and the central monastic body, the dzong was totally refurbished and enlarged in 1962, a year after Thimphu was designated the nation's capital.
  • Zangthoperi Lhakhang, lower Thimphu (follow the path down from below the GPO). The present structure was built in 1960s and although lacking the charm of many of the older temples, Zangdopelri still possesses some impressive murals and art treasures and is worthy of a visit. The site of the temple was a former battle ground, and the temple was constructed there in order to pacify energies. Zangthoperi is also the location for the Thimphu lay Buddhist group meetings. Teachings are often given in English and visitors are welcome to attend. Saturday and Sunday afternoons and Tuesday evenings are the most active, though there are often meetings on other days. Dharma books donated to the library are extremely welcome.
  • Takin Preserve, Motithang. The Takin is the national animal of Bhutan, and looks like a cross between a cow and a goat. Legend has it that the animal was created by the great Buddhist yogi, Drupa Kunley, and it can be found only in Bhutan and nearby areas. Taxonomists place the animal in a category of its own as it is not similar enough to any other animal to fit established categories.
  • Botanical Gardens, Serbithang. Located on lush hillside about 15km from the city, the gardens offer a peaceful and relaxing environment to spend a few hours. Botanists will find the wide selection of indigenous trees and plants of interest.
  • Zorig Chusum School of Traditional Arts, near National Library. Zorig Chusum was established in 1971 to preserve the thirteen traditional arts of Bhutan, and visitors are able to observe students honing their skills. The thirteen arts are paintings, carpentry,wood carving, sculpture, casting, metal work, bamboo carving, gold & silver work, weaving, embroidery, masonry, leather work and paper making.

[edit][add listing] Do

  • The National Institute of Traditional Medicine, Serzhong Lam. Tel:+975 2 324-647 - an excellent place to have any chronic ailments diagnosed and treated using herbal compounds. Ensure to keep the prescription. If the medicine is effective, you might want to order more in the future. Open 9AM-3PM Mon to Sat and 9AM-1PM on Sat.
  • The National Library, Pedzoe Lam. Tel:+975 2 322-885 - houses a rare collection of Buddhist texts on the second floor, and there is a small selection of English books on Buddhism (mostly donated from Taiwan) and on Bhutan on the first floor. Open 9:30AM - 1PM & 2PM - 5PM Mon to Fri.
  • Jigme Dorji Wangchuk Public Library, Top end Norzin Lam (left side). This small library has a good selection of English books, but appreciates donations of popular titles, especially those on Buddhism and Bhutan.
  • Thimphu Drupchen (religious ceremony) 4-8 Oct 2008
  • Thimphu Tshechu (religious festival) 9-11 Oct 2008
  • Volunteer. Jangsa Animal Saving Trust, 1F. Kuenzang Complex (Next to Hotel Norling), Norzin Lam. Tel:975 2 323-949 or 325-157. [1] This trust is dedicated to saving the lives of animals destined for slaughter and takes care of hundreds of stray dogs picked up from urban areas. Anyone with time or resources are encouraged to contact the trust and offer assistance.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Bhutan's small population means demand for new and innovative goods is small. Basically, Thimphu has three kinds of stores: clothing, handicraft and hardware. Between these, there is a small assortment of stationary-cum-bookstores and supermarkets. Almost all stores stock the same goods, so if you can not find the required items in the first couple of stores it is generally useless to persist. However, what the city lacks in variety, it adequately substitutes with friendliness. As the store keeper informs you that the goods you want are not available and cannot be ordered, you will inevitably be facing a warm and friendly smile.

[edit] Handicrafts

  • Yarkay Central. This shopping center located across from Hotel Norling on Norzin Lam has four good quality craft stores: Kelzang Handicrafts (Tel: 322-469) is the most commercial and sells a range of goods, including 'T' shirts; Druk Handicraft (Tel: 322-258) and Kurtue Handicrafts (Tel: 325-883) specialize in woven goods and Karchung (Tel: mobile 17607724) sells a small, but good quality range of art work and wood carvings.
  • Blue Poppy Bhutanese (PO Box 1296. Tel:+975 2 326-752) is a handicraft store specializing in woven fabrics and paintings located in the Kawajangsa area of the city, near the indigenous medicine hospital. There are also other handicraft stores in that area - so if you are looking for souvenirs, it is a good place to visit.
  • The weekend market in Chubachhu (across the river from the main town) has over 100 stalls selling hand woven cloth and other handicrafts.
  • Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre, Changzamtog. A weaving center employing around 20 professional weavers. Showroom on top floor.
  • Handicrafts Emporium, top end of Norzin Lam (right side). A government run craft shop with a wide range of goods. Set prices. Specialized selection of books on Buddhism and local subjects on second floor.
  • Traditional Carpets. Yangkhil Home Decor, KMT Building, Norzin Lam (diagonally across from Taj Hotel). Tel:+975 2 336-247. Probably the best selection of hand woven carpets in town.

[edit] Books

  • Book World in alley behind immigration office. A good selection of English books, especially on Bhutan and Buddhism. Tel:+975 2 328-539. E-mail:bookworld@druknet.bt
  • DSB Books Enterprises in Jojo Building near Druk Hotel has a wide selection of books in English - novels and children's books are a specialty. PO Box 435, Thimphu. Tel:+975 2 326-275, 326-276. E-mail:dsb@druknet.bt
  • Pekhang Books, next to cinema. Possibly the best selection of English books in town. Don't be put off by the small and unassuming entrance.

[edit][add listing] Eat

It is important to note that most restaurants (including those in hotels) in Thimphu stop serving food between 9PM and 9:30PM.

[edit] Budget

  • MK Restaurant, Centrepoint Shopping Centre (next to the main cinema hall). Popular with Japanese and serves Bhutanese, India and Japanese dishes. Open until around 9-9:30PM.
  • Hotel Tandin, Norzin Lam (restaurant on the first floor). Delicious Bhutanese and Indian dishes at very reasonable prices.
  • Cypress Restaurant, Norzin Lam (second floor - opposite Taj Hotel). A simple restaurant serving Bhutanese and Indian dishes - huge helpings at reasonable prices.

[edit] Mid range

Vegetarian

  • Jampa, 2F., Peling Building (directly behind Hotel Norling and next to Hotel Pedling). Tel:+975 2 327-506. A pure vegetarian restaurant. Excellent Indian, Taiwanese/Chinese, European and Bhutanese dishes served with great service in a tranquil and elegant environment. Closed on Sundays.

Western

  • Swiss Bakery, Chorten Lam (above the traffic roundabout). Sells tasty sandwiches, pies and other baked items - but decor drab and uninteresting - best use as a take-out.
  • Jichu Drakey Bakery, Doebum Lam (a two minute walk from the swimming pool in the direction of the Memorial Chorten). An excellent selection of cakes and pastries. Take-out only.
  • The Seasons Restaurant Pizzeria, Namsay Shopping Complex, Phenday Lam. Tel: +975 2 327-413. One of a few places in town that serve authentic pizza and Italian salads. Pizzeria also offers a good selection of filter coffees and has an outdoor patio.
  • Hogdog, 2F, Karma Place (complex with bowling alley). Thimphu's first Western-style fast food joint. Wide range of hot dogs and fillings, including a vegetarian variety made from soya beans.
  • Druk Pizza, behind Bhutan Observer Building (also known as KMT Building) at the top end of Norzin Lam. Tel:+975 2 334-543. Good quality pizzas with small selection of milk shakes and hot beverages.

Chinese

  • Chopstick, 2nd floor, Centre Mall, Norzin Lam. Tel:+975 2 333-601. A small restaurant specializing in Chinese dishes.

Bhutanese/Indian

  • Conifers, 1F, Tashi Rabten Building (above Zangthoperi Shopping Complex), Phendey Lam. Tel: +975 2 332-000. A pleasant restaurant offering local and international cuisine.
  • Jikss Trokhang, 5F., S.D. Plaza, Norzin Lam. Tel:+975 2 333-099. A cool place to chill out. Main dining hall offers a relaxing and cozy environment, while the bar-cum-cafe (across the hall) offers live music (mostly Bhutanese and Indian rock). Serves Indian and Bhutanese dishes.
  • R. Penjor Guest House, Norzin Lam (between Traffic Circle and Clock Tower). Tel:+975 2 325-578. The unattractive decor and lack of charm is more than compensated for by the innovative and delicious food prepared by the Chennai trained chef. The restaurant serves Bhutanese, European, Chinese and Indian cuisine. Service is fast and friendly.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Bhutan is not a place for coffee lovers as most cafes only sell the instant variety. Seasons Restaurant Pizzeria (see eat section) probably has the best selection of ground coffees in town. Others are listed below.

  • The Art Cafe, a block over from the main traffic circle, just below the Swiss Bakery. Tel:+975 2 327-933. A bright, airy and elegant cafe with courtyard. Serves simple and wholesome meals, though the delicious cakes and excellent filter coffee are the main draw.
  • Khamsa Coffee, top floor, Cham Lam Plaza, Lower Thimphu. A smart cafe offering views over the surrounding mountains. Serves a variety of filter based coffees.
  • Twilight Lounge, follow road down from Norzin Lam traffic circle. This bar-cum-karaoke is located in an alley on the left. A good place to meet young locals.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Hotel Norling, PO Box 327 Norzin Lam. Tel:+975 2 322-997, 323997. E-mail:norlinghotel@druknet.bt A clean and pleasant facility located on the city's main street (Norzin Lam). All rooms with attached bathroom and TV. Very friendly and helpful service. Single - 490 Nu Twin - 650Nu.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Wangchuk Hotel, PO Box 507 Changlam 17, Thimphu. Tel:+975 2 323-532, 325484. E-mail: htlwchuk@druknet.bt A pleasant hotel located near the city center and over looking the river and hills beyond. Sauna, massage and steam bath facilities. Standard single - 1,150Nu, standard double - 1,450Nu.
  • Hotel Jumohlari, PO Box 308, Thimphu. Tel:+ 975 2 322-747, 325506. E-mail:hoteljumolhari.com [2]. A modern facility in the city center. Massage and recreational facilities. Standard single - 2,000Nu, standard double - 2,500Nu.
  • Hotel Druk, Tel:+975 2 322-966, 322977. E-mail:drukhotel@druknet.bt A large city center hotel located adjacent to the Clock Tower. Health club with massage, sauna, steam facilities. Standard single - 2,000Nu, standard double - 2,500Nu.

[edit] Splurge

  • Taj Tashi, PO BOX 524, Samten Lam. Tel:+975 2 236-699. Opened in 2008, a large and centrally located hotel offering full amenities. Rates start from US$275 (off season), US$350 (peak season) per night.
  • Amankora Thimphu, Near Kuenga Chhoeling Palace, Upper Motithang. Tel:975 2 331-333. Part of the Aman super luxury hotel chain. A sixteen room lodge offering five star plus facilities. US$1,000+

[edit] Contact

  • The area code for Thimphu is 02. When calling from overseas. dial: +975 2 XXXXXX

[edit] Internet

Internet cafes in Thimphu are linked to broadband. Connections are swift, though at around 60nu per hour quite expensive.

  • Buddha Internet, Norzin Lam (diagonally across from Chopstick Restaurant). Has a large range of computers - excellent service - very fast connections.
  • Hotel Norling, opposite the hotel reception room on the second floor - efficient and fast.
  • JP Internet Cafe, Jojos Building - very professional.
  • Go Go Internet Cafe, Lhaki Building (in the lanes above the central area of Norzin Lam - sign above main gate: Cloud Nine Restaurant) remains open until around 11PM (the latest in town).

[edit] Cope

  • Visa extensions and route permits are available from the Immigration Office at the top end of Norzin Lam (just past the Textile Museum).
  • Post Office. The central PO is located in the lower part of town on Chang Lam. It and is a large and well organized facility that includes a philatelic department. Mailing letters/packages in Bhutan is usually very safe though, like elsewhere, anything of value should be registered.
  • Banks. The two main banks in Thimphu are 'Bank of Bhutan' and 'Bhutan National Bank'. The former is on Norzin Lam (mid way between the traffic circle and Taj Tashi Hotel), while the National Bank is located directly below the Bank of Bhutan, in the same building as the post office. Both banks provide money change and ATM services. NB: The ATM machine for 'Bank of Bhutan' is just inside the main gate, not in the bank itself.

[edit] Get out

Buses depart the inter-district bus station (across the river) throughout the day, though most, especially those heading to the east and Jakar/Bumthang leave between 6:30 to 7:30AM. As the inter-district buses are often full, it is advisable to purchase a ticket a few days in advance. Shared taxis are a quick and comfortable means to travel to nearby places, such as Paro (100nu) and Punakha (150nu). Shared taxis depart from the inter-district bus station, and drivers approach potential customers. They depart once full.

Monastic complexes are referred to by their their Bhutanese title of 'gompa' not 'monastery'.

  • Tango Gompa. About a thirty minute drive from Thimphu down town followed by a one hour hike, this is one of Bhutan's historical monasteries in the Kagyu tradition. It was founded by the grandson of the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kinley, and houses some of his relics. The monastery offers spectaular viwes over the Thimphu Valley.
  • Cheri Gompa. Located a short ride from Tango, this was the first Drukpa Kagyu Monastery in Bhutan and marks the site where Shabdrong Rinpoche gained enlightenment. It is a steep forty minute climb to the monastery.
  • Phajoding Gompa. Founded in the 13th century by Togen Pajo, a yogi from Tibet, this monastic complex is a three hour hike from Thimphu (start from Motithang or BBS Tower). At a height of 3,640m, it commands excellent views over Thimphu. There is space for camping. Otherwise, the small Thujidrag Gompa (a forty minute walk from Phajoding) offers simple accommodation (often full at weekends) and cooking facilities - offer donation directly to monk in charge. Even if you do not plan to stay at Thujidrag, this cliff hanging monastery is still definitely worth a visit. Locally, it is famous for its sacred spring water. There are several sacred lakes in the area, though these are a full day's circular hike from Thujidrag.
  • Paro - The location of the international airport and center of a sacred valley. Paro is a 45 minute to one hour drive from the capital - an easy day trip.
  • Punakha - The former capital - a 90 minute journey.
  • Jakar - A town at the heart of a sacred and beautiful valley. The journey from Thimphu takes between 9 to 11 hours. A minimum of three days are needed to do justice to a visit.

Tashi Tours and Travels, below the clock tower. Can arrange local tours and international flights. PO Box 423, TCC Building Thimphu. Tel:+975 2 323-361, 323027. E-mail:tasitour@druknet.bt

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!