Tijuana
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WARNING: As of April 14, 2008, the United States State Department has issued a travel warning [1] for all border areas of the United States and Mexico. Rival narcotics gangs have increased violent activities against each other and against non-involved citizens. |
Tijuana is a city in Baja California Norte, Mexico. It is located right across the border from San Diego, California, USA. Visitors can expect an ideal climate for most of the year, with average temperatures during the daytime ranging from 68ºF in January, to 86º in August. The rainy season is short (and tame, with yearly averages close to only 10 inches of rainfall), and encompasses late Winter to early Spring. Tijuana has a population of around 1.2 million people according to the last census, although it is believed that the number is now closer to 2 million. The city has grown from a small border town with a salacious reputation during the Prohibition era in the United States; into a large, modern city with a sizable middle class. Its proximity to the United States has made it a very popular tourist destination, especially for day-trippers from San Diego. Recent violence has severely curtailed that traffic, however.
[edit] Districts
- Playas
- Zona Centro - including Avenida Revolucion
- Zona Norte
- Zona Rio
[edit] Understand
Tijuana along with its U.S. neighbor San Diego form the largest metropolitan area on the U.S.-Mexican Border with a population of 4.5 million.
Economically, a growing middle class whose disposable income has fueled Tijuana's transformation into a modern city with a vibrant culture, a characteristic that has attracted many national and international businesses which had largely shunned the city before. Aside from the middle class, in Tijuana you can reasonably expect to find areas filled with richer people. Tijuana is a transit point for illegal immigration into the United States, as well as a common destination for any illegal Mexican immigrants deported from the west coast of the United States. As such, some areas are swollen with poor people with no roots in the city, who inhabit shantytowns. Apart from these poor migrants, Tijuana is one of the wealthiest cities in Mexico. Some (mainly residential) areas of the city reflect the significant number of wealthy people who inhabit the city.
Tijuana's growing reputation as a cosmopolitan city is justified. Not only is the city home to many people who have migrated from within the same country, as well as some native Mexican Indians, but it boasts an important amount of Asian residents, as well as Americans (mostly from neighboring San Diego who have been drawn to Tijuana by cheaper housing), and South Americans from Argentina and Uruguay, among others.
Frequent English-speaking visitors to Tijuana use the term "gringo-friendly" for a shop, bar, or restaurant in which a non-Spanish speaking customer will be at ease. A place is gringo-friendly if the staff here is accustomed to dealing with American tourists, if they speak English and have English-language menus. Places that are not gringo-friendly may require use of Spanish, and patience. Just because a place is not gringo-friendly does not imply that the people there will not be friendly or that tourists will not be welcome.
While the Mexican peso is the legal currency, US dollars are widely accepted. Tijuana observes daylight savings time (DST) the same way as the USA did pre-2007, from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October. Note there will be several weeks each year when San Diego is on DST, but Tijuana is not.
[edit] Talk
Spanish is the dominant language in Tijuana, as it is in much of Mexico. However, English is spoken by almost everybody in the city's tourist hot spots (such as Avenida Revolucion), as well as by taxi drivers and the Americans that live in the city. Having someone with you who can speak Spanish will be helpful when going away from Avenida Revolucion.
[edit] Get in
Most tourists enter Tijuana through the border crossing at San Ysidro, which is reportedly the busiest border crossing in the world. The crossing can be made by car, bus, bicycle, or on foot.
[edit] By plane
Tijuana International is served by the major Mexican airlines. San Diego International Airport [2] is only a few miles north of the international border and can be used as a transit point for travellers wishing to visit Tijuana.
[edit] By train
The last stop on the southbound San Diego Trolley will deposit you at the border. However, you must still cross the freeway on the pedestrian bridge by going up, across and back down. Then there are a couple of one-way gates you cross through.
[edit] By car
Take I-5 or I-805 to south. Either park at the border and continue on foot or you drive into Mexico. Driving from the US to Mexico usually requires no stopping. Driving across the border from Mexico to the US may involve a long wait, especially during evening rush hour or on holiday weekends. Mexican insurance is required, which can be bought immediately before crossing the border, or even online before your trip. Many times, the Otay Mesa and Tecate border crossings, also nearby, are much less congested gettng back into the US. To get to the Otay crossing can be a little scary (not good for Gringos at night) and the border agents don't seem as pleasant as when working at the San Ysidro crossing.
If you are leaving at the San Ysidro crossing on foot and the line is long, rent a bike for $5 and breeze through in the "bike line". There will be someone on the other side to collect the bike ;}
[edit] By foot
Many people drive to the border, park on the US side, and walk across. There are many lots available for this, which charge $4-$9 a day. While there are many taxis waiting to take you to Avenida Revolucion, it's only about a fifteen minute walk; follow the other tourists.
[edit] By bus
Mexicoach buses leave from the parking lots on the US side, cross into Mexico, and drop you off at the bus station on Revolucion Avenue in the middle of the downtown tourist district. These buses run during the day, every day, and costs $5 one way or $8 roundtrip. The parking lot at Mexicoach is about $7/day.
[edit] Get out
[edit] Get around
Cabs are abundant throughout the city. If you are walking into Tijuana via the San Ysidro border crossing, you will be immediately confronted with a massive array of yellow cabs waiting to take you into downtown. This group of cab drivers are conveniently located, but be sure to negotiate a price before jumping into a cab.
Throughout the city, cab drivers stand on the sidewalks and solicit customers. It is almost impossible to avoid them, so finding a cab should never be a problem. Yellow cabs do not have meters, so agree with your driver in advance what the cost will be. Taxi Libre, white with red stripe, cabs have meters and are cheaper than yellow cabs, though you might have to remind the driver to use the meter.
[edit][add listing] See
- Avenida Revolucion in the Zona Centro - the main tourist area
- Bullfights - Tijuana has one bullring, which are open during the summer months, it is located in Playas de Tijuana. It is the only seaside bullring in the world. The older and more historic bullring near the city center has been partially demolished by the owner of the property in the past year, citing failed business practices of the bullring. However, there is a strong movement within the city to designate this site a historical monument, rebuild the bullring and have it serve as a municipal arena.
[edit][add listing] Do
Tijuana is on the ocean, but is not known for its beaches, for boating, or as a seaside resort. However, it is in cabbing distance of Rosarito - the trip will cost $20, while Mexicoach will bus you there for around $10. Ensenada is further down the coast but easily accessible by car or bus.
- Visitors to Rosarito and Ensenada should note that the main road is a toll road, with small sedans and trucks being tolled at $26 Mexican Pesos or $2.55 USD. Either currency is accepted generally.
- Visit the historical centers such as the Preparatoria Federal Lazaro Cardenas which is famous for being the central base of liquor contraband during the Al Capone days.
- Visit the world famous Zona Norte "Red Light District". Tourist, American Military, and Locals alike have been venturing to this well secured, heavily employed area. The top 3 places are Adalitas, Hong Kong Club, and Chicago Bar.
[edit][add listing] Buy
There are disappointingly few bargains to be had in Tijuana. Silver and leather products are allegedly cheaper than in the US. Souvenir shops abound. Many of the items sold in the souvenir shops are actually purchased in the San Diegan swap meets and brought into Mexico and resold to tourists.
- Cuban cigars are mostly fake, with the majority being of Mexican origin with a "Cohiba" or "Montecristo" brand name added. However, La Casa Del Habano [3] on Avenida Revolucion is a licensed dealer that sells genuine Cubans.
- Silver bracelets and necklaces are common, but maybe fake. Don't pay more than than four dollars apiece.
- Vanilla is a bargain. Good place to buy is in plaza on revolucion
- Spanish music cassettes for only about fifty cents available in plaza on Revolucion .
- Mexican groceries try stores like Calimax or Comercial Mexicana and see numerous Mexican products not found in other places or Mexicanized version of American products.
[edit][add listing] Eat
Apart from the abundant, over-priced tourist traps, local cuisine ranges from world-class restaurants to locals-only eateries and street vendors selling tacos. Food poisoning is more of a risk at the cheaper establishments, but will probably not be a concern. In many sit down restaurants, musicians will wander in and play for tip. Most such musicians are untalented and many work with pickpockets, so take care! If cuisine is an important factor in your visit to Mexico, be sure to check out the smaller taco shops, where you will be able to enjoy the best carne asada tacos in the world for under thirty cents each. Also delicious are Churros made by street vendors, and the "hot dog" imitations sold as well. Be sure to avoid vendors that are not being patronized by locals. However, American establishments such as McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, and Carl's Jr. (As Carl's Jr., not Hardee's) are in many parts of the city. However there are some local chains, such as Cafe Sanborns, that prove to be more popular and interesting than the American ones.
The strolling musicians that frequent the Safari Club seemed to be okay. They were not working with pick pockets. Safari Club is an open air restaurant and bar. I always went in the daytime. It is on Revolucion between 5th and 6th. The waiters are gringo friendly and the musicians I know are Lalo who has a nice voice and sings alone, a group of four with Texan hats, one has a bongo drum, and an older group of men with suits they are fine. They can also get you real mariachis but they are expensive about 30 or 35.00. You can hear them practice for free down by the arch. I ate in the Safari Club many times and as a lady alone and really wasn't bothered, just by the many people trying to sell you bracelets and other trinkets.The restaurant next door also has very nice people working there. They are friendly and they have a dish called chile con carne which is very good. It is like beef stew meat but even tastier. The beers are also a little cheaper here. If you are facing the street from safari the restaurant next door is to your left.There is a waitress named Meela that is very nice and the waiters are nice. They can also seat you upstairs where it is quieter.
[edit] Budget
- Café La Especial, Av. Revolucion 718, in the heart tourist district. Down the stairs in a pedestrian alley. This inexpensive restaurant is the opposite of the noisy, over-priced tourist traps that line Revolucion. Standard Mexican dishes served in a very relaxed, quiet environment. Gringo-friendly, though very popular with locals.
- La Espadaña, Sánchez Taboada Blvd. 10813, Zona Rio. Called the best breakfast in Tijuana. Very inexpensive, but nonetheless attracts a very upscale crowd.
- Bol Corona , Any cab driver can direct you to one of the many franchises of this Tijuana establishment near the city centre. Bol Corona was founded in the 1930's and popularized the then little known "burrito" among the American tourists seeking haven from prohibition laws in the United States. Featuring very inexpensive yet high quality Mexican cuisine, Bol Corona is a must. Several franchises have opened on the San Diego side of the border as well.
[edit] Mid-range
- Caesar's hard to miss on Avenida Revolucion in Zona Centro. Reputedly the birthplace of the famous Caesar's salad, in 1924. It is still served there according to its original recipe, mixed and served at your table in accordance to tradition. Has all the appearance of a tourist trap but has a good reputation for quality at a good price. A whole lobster here is $20. Tijuana being what it is, Caesar's also has a strip club which is accessible through the restaurant - keep in mind if you have kids along.
- Chiki Jai, corner of Revolucion and 7th in Zona Centro. Unpretentious, non-touristy Spanish-Basque taberna that has been open since 1947. Filled with bullfighting memorabilia, it is a slice of Spain in the heart of Tijuana. Their sangria and tapas have a good reputation.
- Sushi House, Zona Rio, right by the Office Depot on Paseo de los Heroes.
- La Cantina de los Remedios, Zona Rio, northeast corner of the Abraham Lincoln traffic circle on Paseo de los Heroes. Vast liquor selection, all of which is visible on the immense shelving along the wall behind the bar. Great menu of traditional and modern Mexican cuisine. Two features are of special interest - first are the quotations and pithy sayings in Spanish along all the ceiling beams. The second is the extensive use of Loteria cards to decorate the ceilings as well as the backs of the menus. Both are great for practicing Spanish while enjoying your meal.
- Negro Durazo, Seafood - Located in Zona Rio
- Los Argos - Popular local place with tasty lobster, mussels and fish platters. No English menu, but if you ask for Cesar, he can help you order.
[edit] Splurge
- Cien Años, Zona Rio, on a side street off Paseo de los Heroes, across from the Mundo Divertido family fun center. Open for lunch and dinner. Very famous. Supposedly every recipe on the menu is over 100 years old (hence the name "Cien Años", one-hundred years). Some recipes supposedly date back to Aztec times. Menu includes a number of very strange items such as corn fungus, and bone marrow soup. Gringo-friendly but Spanish is useful. Restaurant is small, with beautiful decor, and a relaxing atmosphere. Prices range from moderate to expensive.
- La Costa, Seafood restaurant on 7th Street in Zona Centro, around the corner from the Mexicoach station. Expensive but excellent dishes.
- La Diferencia, Blvd. Sánchez Taboada No.10611-A Zona Río, between Blvd. Abelardo L. Rodríguez & Escuadrón 201. Excellent and innovative Mexican dishes, and great tamarindo margaritas. Moderately expensive by Tijuana standards but well worth it (~$95 for 2 people, incl. margaritas, wine, appetizer, entree & dessert). Highly recommended.
- Angulos - Seafood, Located in Zona Rio
[edit][add listing] Drink
Beer drinkers are well-advised to visit the "Cerveceria Tijuana," the Tijuana Brewery, and its brewpub. It is located on Blvd. Fundadores, a few minutes by taxi south of the Ave. Revolucion shopping district. Not only do they brew and serve five different Eastern European-style lager beers, but they also have a reasonably-priced food menu. The brewpub is especially impressive because it is designed to look just like a European pub, with dark wood paneling, stained glass, and hardwood floors. One area even has a large window looking into the brewery floor, where you can see the workers busy at their brewing.
High quality margaritas and tequila are also available at numerous establishments.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range
At the north end of Zona Centro, directly adjacent to the large arch spanning Ave. Revolucion, is the Hotel Nelson. It is reasonably-priced and clean, and has a bar as well as a restaurant downstairs. The major drawback would be traffic noise from the myriad bars and clubs along this tourist-oriented street.
[edit] Splurge
A more luxury hotel is the Grand Hotel Tijuana. The Grand Hotel Tijuana is one of the most prominent feature in Tijuana's skyline, having 2 33 story twin towers. It features several bars and restaurants, and an in house shopping mall. Adjacent to the hotel is the Club Campestre de Tijuana, Tijuana's oldest country club, which features an 18 hole golf course.
Marriott Hotel Just recently opened, the Marriott took over the Hotel Emporio
[edit] Contact
[edit] Stay safe
Tijuana has a reputation for crime. While Tijuana does have a high crime rate, its murder rate is lower than some American cities such as Baltimore, St. Louis, Detroit, and Washington D.C. As with any large city with a bustling downtown, use common-sense and street smarts when walking the street; especially in the red light district of the "Zona Norte" (North Zone). Zona Norte can be very dangerous if you are walking alone. Much of Tijuana's drug violence happens in this part of the city (due to its proximity to the U.S. Border). Muggings and kidnappings are also common in Zona Norte. Avenida Revolucion is generally safe, and Playas de Tijuana is also relatively safe. The biggest problem you might experience is trouble-making American men who stumble out of bars and brothels (so-called massage parlors). Avoid alcohol and intoxication.
It is advisable to be very careful of buying anything that would alert suspicion from Mexican police, this would include any type of prescription medicine (with potential for abuse, or perhaps low overdose/extreme side effects), pornography and weapons of any type. The police will use anything against you if they do stop you, so the less they have to go on the better. Laws may differ from those in the USA.
Park in well marked parking lots with security guards. Police enforce the laws on foreigners who commit crimes such as pedophilia or buying illegal drugs. They will also attempt to scare foreign gay tourists by telling them homosexuality is a crime; it is not (in fact, the gay scene is bustling and growing at a rapid pace). But drinking from an open container (alcohol) in the street is. For this and other "crimes", they may suggest an ATM and force you to withdraw money with threats of imprisonment. The standard "fine" is about 3000 pesos but may be higher depending on severity. Drinking in the streets usually carries a bribe of $100-200 (US).
Corruption still exists among the Tijuana Police Department (the Mexican Federal Police on the other hand is trustworthy), so beware. But this is usually done when you are alone after a night on the town, are slightly intoxicated, and your actions make you a potential victim. When speaking to an officer, stay calm and respectful. Never offend or belittle the officer or the country of Mexico. The word is, if you have done nothing wrong, stand your ground and they will eventually let you go. You can insist on seeing a judge, and explain what happened. Most likely the officer will just give a warning and send on your way. In fact, you are entitled to a written ticket, and you can pay the fine by mail. In any case, these made up charges are usually only a small fine, most likely less than the bribe you would offer; you do not go to jail. Remember that you are not immune from Mexican laws, if an officer pulls you over for speeding because you were speeding, it's not corruption. Illegal drugs and drunk driving are taken seriously in Mexico, as they are elsewhere.
- Theft - Pickpockets can be found in certain heavy tourist areas. You are generally safe in areas such as the Zona Rio, Playas de Tijuana, El Hipodromo, and many others, just make sure to always be cautious when visiting alone. The best targets for theft are those who speak no Spanish, wander alone (specially at night), are intoxicated, and travel to the Avenida Revolucion. If you find yourself being swarmed by small children who want to sell you something, be aware that they could be trying to pick your pockets.
- Drug-dealer informants - In many bars and on the street, it is common to be offered illegal narcotic drugs for sale. Some of these peddlers work with the police. They sell someone the drugs, then tell the police that person is carrying. The police shake the person down for cash, and confiscate the drugs, which they presumably return to the original peddler, who goes looking for another victim.
- The $20 switch - very common scam. You buy a beer and give the waiter $20, he brings you back change for a $10, hoping you are too drunk or it is too dark to notice. Sometimes the waiter will palm the $20 and show you a $1, claiming that's what you gave him.
- Donkey shows - For Decades people often talk about the infamous "Donkey Shows" allegedly involving women and animals. This has been one of the biggest fabrications in the history of the city. Truth be told, many of the nude show establishments have some rather seedy shows, but you will certainly never walk into one of them to see any shows involving women and animals of any kind. There are a few clubs on Revolucion that offer nude dance shows. As you walk down the street barkers will try to entice you to come in; smile and walk on. If you do walk into one, most likely you will soon be approached by one or several ladies who will ask you to buy them a drink. Keep in mind that their drinks most of the time are nothing but soda or juice, but you will be expected to pay the full price of a mix drink (they get a commission for each drink you purchase for them from the bar owners). Be aware of overly affectionate ladies who will place their arms around your neck, specially if you are wearing gold chains!
- Prescription drugs - Though your prescription drugs may be much cheaper here, carrying large quantities or carrying them without your prescription can land you many "years" in a Mexican prison. Some foreign prescriptions may not be valid in Mexico. If you break the law, you will be dealt with accordingly. However, this does not include medications which often change in status in the USA from prescription to over-the-counter (e.g. Allegra, Claritin, Zyrtec, Pepcid AC, etc.) Such medications are readily available without a prescription in Mexico. Police are mainly concerned about prescription drugs which have the potential to be abused.
- Food and Alcohol Imports - Note when stopped at the border, U.S.Customs will confiscate any fruits, vegetables, and live or raw meat products in an effort to combat certain diseases or bugs from entering the U.S. food supply. Meat products confiscated can include pork rinds. Alcohol can be brought across the border if for 'personal use' with a limit of 1L duty and tax free.[4] More than 1L for personal use can be brought if duty and relevant taxes are paid. Dairy products can be confiscated too. Another note is the importation of abalone or conch meat, which are endangered species and not for sale in the US.
- Contraband items - Can be confiscated by U.S. Customs, they include weapons, drugs (illegal or without prescription), Cuban cigars, and live animals.
A few words of advice: many American tourists visit Tijuana only to experience the lewd and shady aspects of the city. The vast majority of such tourists confine their visit to the Avenida Revolucion and experience a very limited view of Tijuana and Mexico. If you are savvy, you will expand your horizons by going to areas where you might actually run into locals, not just the horde of tourists who wander the streets. Also, it is advisable to learn even a couple phrases in Spanish so you are not completely rude and oblivious to everyone around you.

